Review: Former Decatur sushi joint now a sophisticated Buckhead power player

Brush Sushi relocation comes with enhanced fine-dining experience
Brunch is available at Brush Sushi on Saturdays and Sundays. Oct. 30, 2023 (Credit: Courtesy of Brush Sushi)

Credit: Brush Sushi

Credit: Brush Sushi

Brunch is available at Brush Sushi on Saturdays and Sundays. Oct. 30, 2023 (Credit: Courtesy of Brush Sushi)

The new Brush Sushi has been open only for about two months, after relocating from Decatur, but the elegant restaurant already has established itself as one of the best in Buckhead.

Chef Jason Liang and his staff have taken the ambience and service to a new level of sophistication. The decor is subtle and timeless, with nods to Liang’s Taiwanese heritage. The menu includes special dishes served tableside and such luxurious delicacies as caviar, truffles and uni.

Brush built a loyal fan base over more than a decade in downtown Decatur, before being replaced last fall by the short-lived (and more casual) Cuddlefish.

Brush Sushi has a flexible, wide-ranging menu, but sushi remains the star. Courtesy of Brush Sushi

Credit: Brush Sushi

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Credit: Brush Sushi

At the new Brush, a meal easily can surpass $100 per person, yet it’s much more accessible than the new wave of omakase places, including recent Michelin Star winners Mujo and Hayakawa.

For one thing, Brush can accommodate vegetarians. The seasonal warm salad and grilled veggie platter both are excellent, though you might have trouble telling them apart. Each featured a wide variety of hearty vegetables, their flavors deepened and intensified by roasting over binchotan charcoal. Nearly every section of the menu has a vegetarian item, including chili avocado and ume shiso (pickled plum) hand rolls that were featured at Cuddlefish.

Brush also welcomes people who prefer not to eat raw fish; between the small plates and grilled items, there are more than enough options to make a satisfying meal. The hay-smoked miso duck breast, with its dramatic presentation, is a stellar plate of food that seems poised to become Instagram-famous.

The Brush Sushi menu can accommodate  people who prefer not to eat raw fish. Courtesy of Brush Sushi

Credit: Brush Sushi

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Credit: Brush Sushi

Still, sushi remains the star. And thanks to the flexibility offered by Brush’s menu, the selections should appeal to both sushi novices and connoisseurs.

Those who know exactly what they like can order directly from a daily fish menu, where the restaurant’s entire selection is available as sashimi. Many of the options are dry-aged in the style of Edomae sushi, some for up to 21 days. Contrary to the popular belief that sushi must be incredibly fresh, Liang explained that Edomae sushi relies on aging and curing techniques to develop the flavors of the fish.

Those who would like a little guidance also have options. There’s a chef’s tasting menu available for $145 per person, as well as chef’s choice selections of sashimi and nigiri, and a tuna-only tasting.

The one that’s the most fun might be the temaki service. For $129, a sushi chef at a mobile workstation will prepare five separate hand rolls, with such opulent ingredients as osetra caviar, Hokkaido uni, tuna and black truffles. The chef serving our hand rolls gamely answered a near-constant stream of questions.

The cocktail menu at Brush Sushi balances more adventurous concoctions with classics and house favorites. Courtesy of Brush Sushi

Credit: Brush Sushi

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Credit: Brush Sushi

Brush’s beverage program has evolved, as well. There’s a nice mix of classic cocktails and house favorites, such as the sesame-forward Mr. Miyagi, along with more adventurous concoctions. Bar manager Mona Allen is one of the few Black women in the country to have earned a certificate as a sake sommelier, and her poetic descriptions truly can enhance your appreciation of the drink.

In some ways, Brush Sushi still is finding its footing. One night, a server was so eager to please that her presence at our table was somewhat smothering. The hosts also should learn to seat diners farther apart at less busy times; on one visit, we felt a little claustrophobic, even though plenty of other tables were open. Also, the service occasionally drags, so plan on a longish meal.

Brush Sushi experienced a glow-up like no other in its move from downtown Decatur to Buckhead Village. Oct. 30, 2023 (Credit: Courtesy of Brush Sushi)

Credit: Brush Sushi

icon to expand image

Credit: Brush Sushi

Still, it’s a wonder how Liang and his team keep so many plates spinning. Open seven nights a week, Brush is a terrific fine-dining restaurant, yet somehow it also offers lunch and brunch. In addition, Liang personally serves an omakase menu Wednesdays-Sundays, which must be reserved and paid for in advance.

However they’re managing it, the team behind Brush Sushi has achieved an unparalleled restaurant “glow-up,” evolving from an overachieving neighborhood sushi joint into a sexy, sophisticated Buckhead power player. And as the restaurant settles into its new neighborhood, it’s likely to get even better.


3 out of 4 stars (excellent)

Food: upscale sushi

Service: mostly excellent, with a few minor opportunities for improvement

Noise level: moderate to low

Recommended dishes: yellowtail jalapeño, seasonal warm salad, caviar service, hay-smoked miso duck breast, seasonal veggie platter, chef’s choice sushi tastings, hamachi bozushi, tableside temaki service (includes caviar, uni, negitoro ikura, spicy tuna, snow crab and black-truffles), sizzling matcha

Vegetarian dishes: seasonal warm salad, agedashi tofu, seasonal veggie platter, yasai chirashi box, chili avocado temaki/maki, ume shiso temaki/maki, burrata katsu salad (lunch and brunch only), truffle mushroom egg croissant (lunch and brunch only), matcha granola cup (brunch only), seasonal fruit sando (brunch only)

Alcohol: full bar, including an expertly curated sake selection

Price range: $$$-$$$$$

Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Parking: validated deck parking

MARTA: not nearby (Buckhead Station 1 mile away)

Reservations: recommended

Outdoor dining: no

Takeout: yes, online ordering available for pastries, lunch and brunch

Address, phone: 3009 Peachtree Road NE, Atlanta. 404-500-1888


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