Chef Matt Basford is offering a taste of his homeland of Australia at Canoe. Lean, protein-packed and sustainable kangaroo meat is a staple of Basford’s menu, and his newest dish is as delicious as it is clever.

With a flavor similar to venison or beef, a peppercorn-coated loin of kangaroo meat is seared, creating a rich, caramelized, crusty surface. The rare slices are dark in color and super tender, despite the leanness of the meat — rather like a cross between venison and bison.

Served like an open-faced Reuben, the dish has slices piled high atop a satisfyingly crisp (but still chewy) pumpernickel crouton. Between those two layers is vibrant, mulberry-hued sauerkraut, and a pool of creamy Russian bechamel sits alongside for dipping.

While it is listed as an appetizer, the dish easily can make a meal. If you pair it with an Australian shiraz, the savory wine’s tannins are an earthy complement, bringing out the dish’s rich depth.

Canoe. 4199 Paces Ferry Road SE, Atlanta. 770-432-2663, canoeatl.com

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8/26/17 - Atlanta, GA - Georgia leaders, including Gov. Nathan Deal, Sandra Deal, members of the King family, and Rep. Calvin Smyre,  were on hand for unveiling of the first statue of Martin Luther King Jr. on Monday at the statehouse grounds, more than three years after Gov. Nathan Deal first announced the project.  During the hour-long ceremony leading to the unveiling of the statue of Martin Luther King Jr. at the state Capitol on Monday, many speakers, including Gov. Nathan Deal, spoke of King's biography. The statue was unveiled on the anniversary of King's famed "I Have Dream" speech. BOB ANDRES  /BANDRES@AJC.COM

Credit: Bob Andres