Chef Matt Basford is offering a taste of his homeland of Australia at Canoe. Lean, protein-packed and sustainable kangaroo meat is a staple of Basford’s menu, and his newest dish is as delicious as it is clever.

With a flavor similar to venison or beef, a peppercorn-coated loin of kangaroo meat is seared, creating a rich, caramelized, crusty surface. The rare slices are dark in color and super tender, despite the leanness of the meat — rather like a cross between venison and bison.

Served like an open-faced Reuben, the dish has slices piled high atop a satisfyingly crisp (but still chewy) pumpernickel crouton. Between those two layers is vibrant, mulberry-hued sauerkraut, and a pool of creamy Russian bechamel sits alongside for dipping.

While it is listed as an appetizer, the dish easily can make a meal. If you pair it with an Australian shiraz, the savory wine’s tannins are an earthy complement, bringing out the dish’s rich depth.

Canoe. 4199 Paces Ferry Road SE, Atlanta. 770-432-2663, canoeatl.com

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