Sushi pop-up’s lovely appetizer a good choice for connoisseurs and novices

Beautifully prepared sushi, including the elegant, yet-approachable, hamachi sunomono, is what you’ll find at Mujo, a pop-up housed within Cooks & Soldiers.

Sliced hamachi, also known as Japanese yellowtail or amberjack, is served on a simple salad, with a soy dressing. The salad, or sunomono, is made mostly with shredded cabbage, but gets a pop of texture and flavor from crispy-fried granules of garlic. The savory dressing is balanced enough not to overwhelm the hamachi.

The fish, of course, is the star, and it gleams brightly atop the sunomono. Hamachi is wonderful raw, with a sturdy texture and clean flavor. The good stuff, which they certainly have at Mujo, tastes of healthy ocean, not muddy fishiness.