Visiting the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary, Ireland, can be an awe-inspiring experience. This historic attraction is less than two hours from Dublin, easily accessible off a major motorway and close to several quaint towns in the southern part of the country.
The Rock of Cashel, considered the most impressive cluster of medieval buildings in Ireland, was once the seat of Munster, one of the four provinces in Ireland.
The Office of Public Works Heritage Services is an Irish organization that plays a crucial role in protecting and enhancing the nation’s heritage. This group cares for and preserves various sites around Ireland, such as castles, cathedrals, parks, gardens and monuments, among other cultural landmarks. Some of the preservation extends to historic ruins, though the description of a “ruin” is ironic, as they are some of the most fascinating places I have visited in Ireland.
My father is from Kerry, Ireland, and we explored much of the west coast on visits, but this time, we wanted to explore something new.
My sister and I planned our travels with our 80-year-old mom, looking for accessible options for the three of us. The Rock of Cashel and Kilkenny checked all the boxes.
Ireland’s history is a rich tapestry of facts, fables, fairies, friaries, abbeys, cathedrals, churches and castles, all of which I love to explore. The unique and fascinating dichotomy of paganism and Christianity in Irish culture offers a history that is still alive. There is an interesting and artistic overlap of early paganism that predates Christianity by about 500 years.
Credit: Patricia Neligan Barley
Credit: Patricia Neligan Barley
Libby Khuri, a first-time visitor to the Emerald Isle, flew to Dublin directly from Atlanta and said she “felt small amidst the stone, rolling hills and lush green landscape” after visiting the Rock of Cashel.
“Viewing all of the old lichen-covered statues and headstones gave me an appreciation for how ancient these structures are,” she said.
Khuri noted we don’t have these rich and ancient artifacts to walk, explore and admire in the United States.
Irish mythology states Rock of Cashel was formed by Satan. As St. Patrick was banishing pagans from the area, the devil took a bite out of the now aptly named Devil’s Bit Mountain, 20 miles north of Cashel. The devil broke a tooth when he did this, according to Heritage Ireland. As he flew south, he spat it out where Rock of Cashel now stands.
The outcrop of limestone is impressive, and walking through the graveyard with the statues of Mary, Celtic crosses, and headstones is like being in an outdoor museum.
The graveyard is one of the oldest active cemeteries in Ireland. Local families with names on the register dating from 1930 still have the option of being buried among the former kings and archbishops of Munster.
You can purchase entrance tickets online for most of the grounds, but not Cormac’s Chapel. Named after one of the kings of Munster, entrance to Cormac’s Chapel is limited to onsite ticket purchases and sold on a first-come, first-served basis to protect the fragmented remains of the surviving fresco paintings. This chapel is noted to be one of the finest and most complete examples of Romanesque architecture in Ireland.
Credit: Patricia Neligan Barley
Credit: Patricia Neligan Barley
After driving from Dublin and exploring the Rock of Cashel for a few hours, we spent two nights in Kilkenny, a charming medieval town on the River Nore. The streets are very walkable, with several restaurants and shops to explore. It’s easy to appreciate more than just the history as you explore and meander through the Medieval Mile. With its tranquil beauty, Kilkenny is one of Ireland’s most cosmopolitan cities without the crowds of Dublin and Galway. You will find locally crafted goods and artisans, typical tourist shops, and several fine dining and pub food options.
During our trip, we spent a few nights in the Butler House, a charming establishment built in 1786 that used to be the Dower’s House of Kilkenny Castle. A dower house is where the widow of an estate would historically live when her husband died.
The property has a secluded garden adjacent to the castle. Even if you don’t have the opportunity to stay at this charming 4-star hotel, you can schedule an afternoon tea and enjoy the garden. Kilkenny offers a variety of dining and lodging options, each with its unique charm and history.
Credit: Patricia Neligan Barley
Credit: Patricia Neligan Barley
If you enjoy beer, architecture, history or all three, visiting Smithwick’s Experience is a must-do while visiting Kilkenny. Smithwick’s ale was brewed in Kilkenny in 1710 but moved to Dublin in 2013. In Kilkenny’s city center and part of the Medieval Mile is St. Francis Abbey, a 13th-century abbey where the Smithwick Experience is housed. The standard tour is just under an hour long and is led by a local guide with a pint of Smithwick’s at the end of the tour. There is also a Masters of Ale Experience that is about 75 minutes long, where you can learn about the evolutions of their ale. This option includes four tastings and a tutorial on how to pour the perfect pint of Smithwick’s.
Kilkenny is about an hour’s drive northeast of Cashel. I always recommend planning less when you take a trip to Ireland. The island looks small, but most roads are not major highways, and it takes a much longer time than you may anticipate to travel around.
You don’t want to spend your entire trip in the car. And if you are anything like my sister, you will make the drive even longer as you exclaim, “Stop, stop, look at that, we have to take a picture” at all buildings, ruins, animals, and shops.
About the Author
