Here are four dishes to seek out across the Atlanta metro area this month, including a fun Southern take on a Canadian classic in Woodstock and a vibrant fish dish in Kirkwood.
Isan gyudon bowl at Isankaya
Gyudon loosely translates to “beef bowl” in Japanese and typically is thinly sliced beef with onions over rice. At Isankaya, the dish showcases the restaurant’s roots in northeast Thailand’s Isan region as well as Japan. It has the simplicity and clean flavors that are the hallmark of Japanese cuisine, along with spicy-salty-sour Thai notes.
The savory sweet Thai marinade was caramelized in the grilling of Angus beef, which then was sliced thinly and fanned out over a bed of steaming long-grain rice. The jaew (dipping sauce) — which had hints of lime juice, soy sauce, garlic, black pepper and coriander — added a bright counterpoint to the richness of the beef in every tender bite, as well as punch to the rice.
Two soft-boiled egg halves added textural contrast, with yolks that were spreadable. Masago (fish roe) added pops of color and briny flavor. A small mound of wasabi and a stack of pickled ginger condiments accompanied the dish, to adjust the spice levels or for zippy palate cleansing.
Isankaya. 5495 Jimmy Carter Blvd., Norcross. 470-359-2152, isankaya.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Southern poutine at Queenie’s BBQ
Golden fries and squeaky cheese curds ladled with brown gravy is Quebec in a bowl. But just when you think the Canadian dish couldn’t be better, Queenie’s BBQ offers a Southern homage at a place where you can sit inside, outside and in a brewery.
Using many of the ingredients found on the barbecue menu, Southern poutine — listed as a snack — is fun to share as a group appetizer and it makes a meal for one.
The hand-cut fries were crisp and tasty, but soft enough to soak in the “gravies.” There were tender pieces of brisket smoked over Georgia pecan wood in the generous portion of chili topping the fries.
The beer cheese fondue, made with Reformation Brewery’s Cadence Belgian ale, was sharp and bold, with a salty creaminess that covered the chili-covered fries. Finely diced onions and jalapeños were sprinkled over the glorious mess.
The soggy fries with a little bit of everything are the ones to seek out. Grab a lot of napkins to go with this hearty pleaser.
Queenie’s BBQ. 105 Elm St., Woodstock. 770-693-9090, eatatqueenies.com/woodstock
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Spanish meatballs at La Metro
Even though it is inside Ponce City Market, La Metro feels like a pintxos and tapas bar in Spain as you share small plates channeling street food and coastal flavors. However, some dishes, such as the Spanish meatballs, will be hard to share.
Craving a burger and fries, but not wanting a gut bomb of a meal, I opted for meatballs. A trio of meatballs was served with a simple tomato sauce and a pile of patatas bravas. The dish had the savory depth of wagyu beef, subtle sweetness from tomato sauce and crisp, bite-sized potatoes.
Wagyu is known for its intense marbling, and the fat melts while cooking, infusing each meatball with a sweet, nutty richness. The meatballs were moist, juicy and well-packed (but not dense), and had a caramelized surface.
The hand-cut potatoes were a masterwork — a golden crust with soft, fluffy insides, despite being such a thin slice.
Precious in size and playful to eat with wooden picks, the small-plate dish pairs well with a dainty glass of sherry.
La Metro. 675 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-748-4494, lametroatl.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Seared tuna at the Argonaut
It’s the spreads beneath the seared tuna at the Argonaut in Kirkwood that make the dish so noteworthy.
There was hummus made from edamame. It was thick, smooth and slightly sweeter than traditional chickpea hummus. It had a “green” taste to it — fresh and nutty, with vegetal undertones.
Coupled with the young soybean mash was a creamy wasabi avocado puree. Much slicker, even more green and with a spicy tang, it was wonderful by the forkful, mixed with the hummus or used as a dipping sauce for the tuna.
The yellowfin tuna, coated in a house-made blackened seasoning blend, had a delightful interplay of warm, peppery, earthy and herby notes. A high sear created a flavorful crust while caramelizing the edges. The pieces were cut expertly against the grain (about a quarter inch thick) for nonchewy bites.
The raw interior was silky and tender. The clean, meaty, mild flavor of the fish complemented the spicy, savory spice blend. The slices were juicy, with a hint of smoke, and deceptively complex.
Every garnish added to the experience, from the spreads to the spicy microgreens in a fluff atop the precisely arranged row of slices.
The Argonaut. 1963 Hosea L. Williams Drive SE, Atlanta. 470-943-5535, theargonautatl.com
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