Ceviche is a longstanding tradition in Latin America, especially coastal areas, so ordering it at Casa Balam, which blends traditional and modern Mexican cuisine, seemed a natural choice. But, in addition to showcasing the fish, the dish also provided a show.

The ceviche arrived under a cloche and then was unveiled dramatically, releasing a cloud of apple wood smoke into the restaurant. The mild flounder was perfect for layering bolder flavors. Soaked in citrus juices until firm and opaque, it had a silky texture and rich moisture. In addition, the smoke enhanced the fish’s natural flavors.

Ceviche Ahumado at Casa Balam.
(Angela Hansberger for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution)

Credit: Angela Hansberger

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Credit: Angela Hansberger

Pickled red onion, serrano pepper, tomatoes, cilantro and grilled peaches all were sliced into small pieces, like the portions of fish, making the dish easily scoopable on a fork or with a tortilla chip. The bright, zesty citrus sauce was tangy, but not overpowering, and let the mildly sweet fish shine through.

Don’t be surprised if the cold smoke presentation compels others to order the dish.

Casa Balam. 201 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-549-8271, casabalamatl.com

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