“There’s an old dollar bill in a frame.” I sang that line from the tune “Rosalie’s Good Eats Cafe” while placing my order in front of Pure Quill’s first buck. As I took my first bite into the restaurant’s cod royale, Johnny Cash was playing from the speakers. It felt right. It felt perfect — just like the sandwich.

It was big and sloppy in the best way, with finger-licking sauce dripping, yet was prepared skillfully. The seasoned, flaky white fish was coated expertly and fried, with a deliciously crunchy outside. Under that shell, the fish was soft, tender and almost buttery.

Also inside the soft, toasted brioche bun were pickle slices that provided excellent acidity and shredded lettuce that added freshness. But an unexpectedly cheesy, tangy sauce was my favorite part. And a house-made tartar sauce was a critical lubricant that tied it all together with a creamy, briny balance.

I’ll bet whoever spent that first dollar at Pure Quill came back for another meal there.

Pure Quill Superette. 1366 Memorial Drive SE, Atlanta. 404-941-7190, Instagram: @pure.quill.superette

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