Maybe it's a willful act of forgetting, but the recession doesn't seem to be bothering the folks flocking to the newly opened Craft Atlanta in Buckhead. Of course, there are the celebrity stalkers hoping to catch a rare glimpse of chef-owner Tom Colicchio, now perhaps best known as the by turns tough and tender judge on TV's wildly popular "Top Chef."
But all that glitz and glamour aside, foodies know Colicchio for his fanatic dedication to fresh, thoughtfully sourced ingredients and the kind of simple, deft cooking that ultimately makes for memorable dishes and meals. Those tenets easily translate to Craftbar, Colicchio's more relaxed and less pricey companion bar and restaurant located on the ground floor of the two-story, free-standing Craft Atlanta building on Peachtree Road.
Nurturing nature
The split cord wood neatly stacked near the entrance gives a good clue to what's going on. From the wood-fired open kitchen to the rough-hewn and polished timber that runs the length of the bar top, the attitude seems to be about nurturing nature to create a space that feels like a sleek, contemporary version of a lodge.
On a recent weekday afternoon, the tall doors to the front patio were flung open, and the breeze blowing in mingled with the fragrant smoke from the grill to create an outdoorsy atmosphere. Most tables were taken by small groups cheerfully engaged in a business lunch. The bar was blissfully empty, allowing for leisurely considerations of the excellent beer, wine and cocktail lists.
Changing menus
Chef de cuisine Adam Evans, who worked his way through the ranks at Craft New York before coming to Atlanta, executes menus that change quickly, according to seasons and sources. Daily lunch, dinner and weekend brunch dishes vary but overlap with staples, including the popular Craftbar burger, which has Tillamook cheddar, tomato jam and balsamic onions, and the signature veal ricotta meatballs, served at lunch and brunch in a panini with ricotta salad and pickled peppers, and at dinner in a bowl with pappardelle and tomato.
The wonders of fire-kissed food are evident in a selection of skewers, including succulent sections of Harris Ranch sirloin, plated with onion marmalade, blue cheese and tomato. Among the main courses, escolar, a fleshy bright white fish, is grilled to silky perfection, served atop sunchoke puree and a woodsy, faintly trufflelike melange of Brussels sprouts and trompette mushrooms. A decadently rich short rib panini comes with crispy-thin waffle chips and a refreshing bitter-tart salad of frisée, radishes and pickles.
Desserts could be the most playful part of the menu, with the likes of s'mores, a banana split with cocoa nib brittle, and a savory-sweet cornmeal cake with grilled pears, candied bacon and sorghum ice cream.
At night, there are a number of new budget-priced offerings, with snacks, salads, small plates and skewers, all priced between $6 and $12.
AT A GLANCE
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Where:
3376 Peachtree Road, Atlanta. 404-995-7580
• Signature dish: Menu changes daily, but veal ricotta meatballs are a staple
• Entree prices: $14-$24
• Hours: Lunch: noon-5:30 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch: 11 a.m-4 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
• Reservations: Yes
• Credit cards: Yes
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Online:
