In tomorrow's AJC I have a review of Southbound , Chamblee's new restaurant located in an old mercantile-turned-Masonic-Lodge. I gave it a grade of 2 stars.
Southbound was transformed into a local gem over a 25-month restoration period. Now rustic, fresh and stunning, it gleams with brick, dark woods and reclaimed accoutrements all in alignment with the character of the antique structure.
And as captivating and inviting as this decor du jour is, it seems to promise a level of execution that the kitchen doesn’t yet deliver. That’s not to say you won’t enjoy a stewy, rib-sticking dish of rabbit and dumplings or an interesting bottle of Aligote. But you may also notice missteps along the way -- dishes with a jumble of ingredients and muddled flavors that could be remedied with a little tinkering and skillful cooking.
Chef Ryan Smith (not to be confused with the other popular Atlanta chef by the same name), allows his Southern roots to flavor Southbound's menu full of hearty American fare. Here, you'll get your Southern on with boiled peanuts in pork broth or with the fancy fried green tomatoes dressed in a light cornmeal-rice flour batter and adorned with creamy chevre and a tropical pineapple-habanero jam.
Southbound’s ensemble requires a bit of tailoring. If the kitchen could just provide the bold and unique statement, we could have a showpiece on our hands.
Read the full review on myajc.com .
--by Jenny Turknett, Atlanta Restaurant Scene blog
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