Last week, my husband returned from the farmers market with a tote bag bulging with ripe tomatoes and summer squash. Those weren’t on the shopping list, but were too beautiful to resist. I flipped through my newly arrived copy of Portland chef Gregory Gourdet’s “Everyone’s Table: Global Recipes for Modern Health” (Harper Wave, $37.50) hoping for a quick idea for putting my surprise bounty to use.
I reduced those tomatoes into an unconventional marinara infused with plenty of garlic, along with less predictable ingredients: fresh ginger and turmeric, cardamom and coriander, thin slices of barely-cooked squash, and a bright splash of lime juice. I spooned the thickened sauce over roasted halibut fillets, showered them with basil leaves, and paired them with mounds of Spinach Sauteed with Golden Raisins and Pine Nuts.
Those tantalizing flavors convinced me to delve deeper into this bright, original cuisine that made Gourdet a “Top Chef” finalist, James Beard Award nominee and, according to Men’s Health magazine, one of the fittest chefs in America.
Raised by Haitian immigrant parents in Brooklyn, Gourdet studied pre-med, then wildlife biology, before graduating from the Culinary Institute of America and climbing the ranks in the kitchens of famed chef-restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten. But behind the scenes, alcohol and drugs were destroying his life. Eventually he joined Alcoholics Anonymous, traded partying for CrossFit and ultramarathoning, and adopted a mostly paleo diet centered on unprocessed, nutrient-dense foods free of gluten, dairy, soy and grains.
That regimen, combined with influences of his Haitian heritage and world travels, defines intriguing yet approachable entrees and sides like Vietnamese-Style Grilled Pork with Lemongrass, Honey and Black Pepper; Sweet Potatoes in Red Mole with Toasted Pumpkin Seeds; and Coconut-Creamed Collards.
“Everyone’s Table” also offers lessons for making ferments, spice blends, nut milks, rejuvenating drinks, dairy-free ice creams and other indulgent-sounding desserts such as Haitian Spiced Pineapple Upside-Down Cake designed to add excitement to everyday meals while making us feel good for the long run. Sign me up.
Susan Puckett is a cookbook author and former food editor of The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Follow her at susanpuckett.com.
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