Drift Fish House and Oyster Bar in Marietta transforms its patio into a New England-style lobster shack each weekend.

If you visit, you can’t go wrong with the lobster roll: fresh lobster chunks piled in a soft, split roll, and topped with warm, melted butter.

The lobster clearly is the star here. You’ll get a quarter pound of huge lobster hunks with each order. The shellfish is tender, sweet and served at just the right temperature: not too cold, which could make the butter congeal, and not too hot, which could make the bread soggy.

The bread itself is lovely, with a golden crust and a soft, pliant interior. But, the real magic is in the middle, where the melted butter soaks into the bread and creates a creamy, rich layer under the lobster. The texture is like the interior of good French toast.

Pop’s Lobster Shack. 4475 Roswell Road, Marietta. 770-635-7641, driftoysterbar.com/specials.

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