Rasoi serves many of the classic Indian gravies, including bright red-orange korma and deep green saag, with the flavors just as impressive as their rich hues. On the menu, entree specials are organized by protein, including chicken, seafood, goat and lamb, but each section features several of the same gravies.
Lamb saagwala was a particular highlight, with tender chunks of meat braised in a thick, spicy spinach and herb sauce. The meat in the goat korma, featuring a lively yogurt and cashew sauce, was even more tender, falling off the bone.
Along with a very good chicken tikka masala, these dishes were served in deceptively large hammered-copper bowls. Most of the saucier dishes are served with rice, but you also should order the excellent house-made naan, which your server likely will suggest. The bread-basket assortment offers four separate flavors of naan.
However, despite the very large portions of naan, don’t skip the appetizers. Samosa choley was an excellent version of the popular street food, filled with spiced mashed potatoes that were light and airy. The chickpeas served alongside the samosas were almost buttery, much more tender than what you typically get out of a can. Pakoras (small vegetable fritters) were fried to perfection and served with a variety of chutneys.
For those who want a little pageantry with their meal, tandoori dishes are served in a sizzling cast-iron platter, like fajitas. Our shrimp were plump and perfectly cooked, coated in a layer of spices.
If the shrimp tandoori was a visual spectacle, the lamb biryani was an olfactory one. Studded with whole cloves, the scent from the huge bowl of biryani seemed to envelop our whole table. Biryani often is relegated to the background as a basic dish, but it gets a star turn at Rasoi. The savory lamb is offset by sweet–tart tamarind, although you’ll have to watch out for tamarind seeds, and the aforementioned whole cloves, as you eat.
About five minutes from the Ga. 400 exit, Rasoi is accessible in more ways than one. The menu includes a variety of dishes with no onions and no garlic, if that’s your speed, and the spice levels on many dishes are adjustable. Spicy dishes also can be tamed easily with large bottles of Taj Mahal beer, one of the most popular brands sold in India.
With its expansive menu and patient but efficient service, Rasoi does an excellent job of making the complex cuisine of Southern and Western India approachable, without dumbing down the flavors. It’s that kind of restaurant where lovers of the cuisine and novices both are able to find equal enjoyment.
RASOI FUSION INDIAN CUISINE
Food: Southern and Western Indian
Service: friendly, patient, prompt
Best dishes: biryani, lamb saagwala, pakoras, samosa choley, goat korma
Vegetarian dishes: large vegetarian menu
Alcohol: full bar
Price range: $$
Credit cards: all major cards accepted
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesdays- Fridays, 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays, 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays
Parking: lot on premises
MARTA station: no
Wheelchair access: yes
Noise level: quiet
Outdoor dining: no
Address, phone: 720 Holcomb Bridge Road, Roswell. 770-817-0661
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