Review: Rasoi Fusion in Roswell a good choice for Indian cuisine lovers and novices

Credit: Henri Hollis

Credit: Henri Hollis

Rasoi Fusion Indian Cuisine is an unassuming dining spot that rewards a second look.

Opened nearly a year ago on Holcomb Bridge Road, the restaurant might be easy to zoom past. However, those who check it out will find a comfortable, well-run dining room inside.

At first glance, the menu might be a little overwhelming. But, upon further investigation, clear patterns emerge, and well-written dish descriptions provide helpful guidance.

When you inevitably take home leftovers, you almost certainly will appreciate a second opportunity to enjoy Rasoi’s richly spiced dishes.

On our visits, the restaurant’s large dining room was relatively quiet, with instrumental Indian music playing at a reasonable volume and no TVs in sight. Windows stretching across the front of the space provide beautiful natural light during the day, highlighting the intense colors of the food.

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Credit: Henri Hollis

Credit: Henri Hollis

Rasoi serves many of the classic Indian gravies, including bright red-orange korma and deep green saag, with the flavors just as impressive as their rich hues. On the menu, entree specials are organized by protein, including chicken, seafood, goat and lamb, but each section features several of the same gravies.

Lamb saagwala was a particular highlight, with tender chunks of meat braised in a thick, spicy spinach and herb sauce. The meat in the goat korma, featuring a lively yogurt and cashew sauce, was even more tender, falling off the bone.

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Credit: Henri Hollis

Credit: Henri Hollis

Along with a very good chicken tikka masala, these dishes were served in deceptively large hammered-copper bowls. Most of the saucier dishes are served with rice, but you also should order the excellent house-made naan, which your server likely will suggest. The bread-basket assortment offers four separate flavors of naan.

However, despite the very large portions of naan, don’t skip the appetizers. Samosa choley was an excellent version of the popular street food, filled with spiced mashed potatoes that were light and airy. The chickpeas served alongside the samosas were almost buttery, much more tender than what you typically get out of a can. Pakoras (small vegetable fritters) were fried to perfection and served with a variety of chutneys.

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Credit: Henri Hollis

Credit: Henri Hollis

For those who want a little pageantry with their meal, tandoori dishes are served in a sizzling cast-iron platter, like fajitas. Our shrimp were plump and perfectly cooked, coated in a layer of spices.

If the shrimp tandoori was a visual spectacle, the lamb biryani was an olfactory one. Studded with whole cloves, the scent from the huge bowl of biryani seemed to envelop our whole table. Biryani often is relegated to the background as a basic dish, but it gets a star turn at Rasoi. The savory lamb is offset by sweet–tart tamarind, although you’ll have to watch out for tamarind seeds, and the aforementioned whole cloves, as you eat.

Credit: Henri Hollis

Credit: Henri Hollis

About five minutes from the Ga. 400 exit, Rasoi is accessible in more ways than one. The menu includes a variety of dishes with no onions and no garlic, if that’s your speed, and the spice levels on many dishes are adjustable. Spicy dishes also can be tamed easily with large bottles of Taj Mahal beer, one of the most popular brands sold in India.

With its expansive menu and patient but efficient service, Rasoi does an excellent job of making the complex cuisine of Southern and Western India approachable, without dumbing down the flavors. It’s that kind of restaurant where lovers of the cuisine and novices both are able to find equal enjoyment.

RASOI FUSION INDIAN CUISINE

Food: Southern and Western Indian

Service: friendly, patient, prompt

Best dishes: biryani, lamb saagwala, pakoras, samosa choley, goat korma

Vegetarian dishes: large vegetarian menu

Alcohol: full bar

Price range: $$

Credit cards: all major cards accepted

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesdays- Fridays, 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays, 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays

Parking: lot on premises

MARTA station: no

Reservations: yes

Wheelchair access: yes

Noise level: quiet

Outdoor dining: no

Takeout: yes

Address, phone: 720 Holcomb Bridge Road, Roswell. 770-817-0661

Website: rasoifusionroswell.com

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