The signature dish at Dagu Rice Noodle is the hearty bowls of flavorful broth and chewy, but tender, rice noodles. However, there is another dish at this Buford Highway restaurant that is destination-worthy.

“Whole chicken” is how it unassumingly is labeled on the menu. It sounds simple — a small chicken that has been fried, no accompaniments. Then, it arrives in all its glory. It’s enough of a portion to share, but not so large that one would feel guilty eating it alone. Its golden brown crust is so perfect that it looks like prop food for a movie.

Thinly coated before frying, the chicken has a crispy, delicately crunchy exterior. The meat is full of flavor, with a sweet, savory juiciness that tastes like it comes from a spiced brine. It is served with sweet, spicy dipping salts that have a backbone of cumin and plum salt. They lend a ton of flavor, without interfering with the crispy coating.

Should you have a leftover drumstick, this chicken also is excellent when eaten cold from the fridge.

Dagu Rice Noodle. 5090 Buford Highway NE, Doraville. 678-576-6943, daguricenoodle.com

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