Review: Tastes of Mexico, Asia and California meet at Gezzo’s Coastal Cantina

The menu at Gezzo's Coastal Cantina has many new items and ingredients, including starters and seafood. Courtesy of Order Up/Sharon Benton Studio

Credit: Sharon Benton

Credit: Sharon Benton

The menu at Gezzo's Coastal Cantina has many new items and ingredients, including starters and seafood. Courtesy of Order Up/Sharon Benton Studio

Gezzo’s Coastal Cantina, which opened in early May, is a full-service version of the quick-service Gezzo’s West Coast Burritos restaurants in McDonough and Locust Grove run by brother and sister Anita and Howard Hsu.

Elements from Mexico, Asia and Southern California combine in the bigger menu, which includes many new items and ingredients, including starters and seafood, plus more elevated cooking techniques from Cam Floyd, culinary director of the Hsus’ Sweet Auburn BBQ, and head chef Wainer Isidor.

The lively space in Westside Village, formerly Juniper Cafe, features a covered patio, a chef’s counter and a full bar, with plenty of tequila and tropical drinks curated by Beverage Director Shauna Whitson.

You can get two grilled shrimp tacos served with red cabbage, poblano crema, coconut curry, guacamole and cilantro at Gezzo's Coastal Cantina. Courtesy of Order Up/Sharon Benton Studio

Credit: Sharon Benton

icon to expand image

Credit: Sharon Benton

Among the nice surprises in the “for the table” section of the menu, savory Georgia-grown Ellijay mushrooms come roasted, with Spanish rice, serrano escabeche and queso.

Bright fish ceviche is marinated in a ginger and pineapple soy vinegar, with serrano peppers, cucumber, pearl onions, jicama, pomegranate and cilantro. It’s served with tostadas.

Lively snacks include chips fresh from the fryer, served with creamy (in a good way) guacamole, and Tator Toks with Korean spicy aioli, fried shallots and nori.

Tacos are served two-to-an-order on flour tortillas (or corn tortillas on request), with black beans and limey cilantro rice on the side. Priced from $15 for the veggie to $18 for the Gulf shrimp or tempura fish, they make a meal.

Gezzo's Coastal Cantina offers Tator Toks, which come with Korean spicy aioli, sesame fried shallots and nori. Courtesy of Order Up/Sharon Benton Studio

Credit: Sharon Benton

icon to expand image

Credit: Sharon Benton

The shrimp taco is presented with four large, marinated and grilled shrimp in coconut curry, with shredded cabbage. It’s topped with sour cream and guacamole.

Big, cheesy quesadillas come with a choice of proteins, including chipotle chicken, grilled steak, ground beef, grilled shrimp or grilled veggies.

The fajita steak and cheese quesadilla, with grilled onions and bell peppers — plus sour cream and pico de gallo on the side — was cut into four large triangles, making it easy to scarf, but it was too much to finish.

The to-go packaging was neat and well-organized, with a variety of containers, allowing everything to travel well. But you should be aware that there’s a 10% to-go service charge, in addition to tax and tip.

One thing you might want to do is bring a cooler with ice, so you can grab some La Michoacana Mexican ice cream and popsicles, offered from a counter on the patio.

Guacamole is served with avocado, tomato, onion, cilantro, lime and fresh tortilla chips at Gezzo's Coastal Cantina. Courtesy of Order Up/Sharon Benton Studio

Credit: Sharon Benton

icon to expand image

Credit: Sharon Benton

GEZZO’S COASTAL CANTINA

Food: coastal-style Mexican with tacos, quesadillas and burritos

Service: dine-in, online ordering, pickup and delivery, with catering coming soon

Vegetarian dishes: guacamole, nachos, roasted mushrooms, grilled veggies

Alcohol: beer, wine and cocktails

Price range: $4 (sides) to $19 (surf-and-turf burrito)

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays, Tuesdays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Outdoor dining: covered patio with tables

Address, phone: 2260 Marietta Blvd. NW, Atlanta. 470-427-3057

Website: gezzos.com/cantina

Sign up for the AJC Food and Dining Newsletter

Read more stories like this by liking Atlanta Restaurant Scene on Facebook, following @ATLDiningNews on Twitter and @ajcdining on Instagram.