A classic gets a welcome lift at new Atlanta Asian fusion spot

You can get an Asian fusion version of spaghetti and meatballs at Ruby Chow's. Henri Hollis for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution.
You can get an Asian fusion version of spaghetti and meatballs at Ruby Chow's. Henri Hollis for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution.

Credit: Henri Hollis

Credit: Henri Hollis

Dish of the Week: Spaghetti and meatballs from Ruby Chow’s

Rarely does spaghetti and meatballs surprise you — unless you’re ordering it from Ruby Chow’s.

The spaghetti and meatballs at chef Guy Wong’s latest restaurant, which offers Asian fusion cuisine, is an excellent example of a dish that’s elevated thanks to multicultural cooking techniques.

In this version, the spaghetti resembles freshly made ramen noodles, a little thicker and eggier than the typical Italian noodle. The meatballs, broken up in the delivery version of the dish, are rich and spicy, taking things to an almost decadent level. Piquant, acidic tomato sauce marries together the noodles and meat, exactly the way spaghetti and meatballs should be.

In its best iterations, fusion cuisine can reawaken an appreciation for familiar dishes. Ruby Chow’s brings a bit of excitement to spaghetti and meatballs, and that’s impressive.

Ruby Chow’s. 620 Glen Iris Drive, Atlanta. 404-585-7829, rubychows.com.

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