This nearly all-vegetable dish is super flexible for wine, which is another way of saying that most any wine fits, red or white, sparkling or still. (Not very sweet wines, though, sorry.) So here’s an idea, given that this dish is also very, very red: let’s do what the inventor of the pizza Margherita did in Naples in 1889 and suggest a white, “green” and red wine to mime the colors of the Italian flag. Green comes by way of a Portuguese vinho verde, “green wine” as in “new wine.” When picking a red, just be sure it isn’t too tannic.

Cook 1/2 pound penne in plenty of salted boiling water until al dente. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add 3 cloves minced garlic; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add 2 red bell peppers, sliced in 1/4-inch strips, and salt to taste; cook until peppers begin to soften, 5 minutes. Add 4 green onions, chopped; cook, 5 minutes. Stir in 1 can (28 ounces) chopped Italian plum tomatoes and 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves. Cook until sauce thickens, about 10 minutes. Drain pasta; serve with the sauce and grated Parmesan. Makes: 4 servings

Recipe by Joe Gray.

The wines

2013 Vera Vinho Verde, Portugal: As light and fresh as a sea breeze (which you’ll swear got captured in the wine on bottling); crisp and cleansing, but also texturally rich. $8-$11

2012 Cantina Andrian Sauvignon Blanc Floreado, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy: You’ll know it’s sauvignon, but it’s also on the down low with herbal character; more white fruits, melon and flowers (hence the name?). $20

2011 Damilano Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy: What barbera offers is snappy acidity, perfect foil for high-acid tomato dishes; lots of dark fruit too. $18-$20