What a yummy summer recipe; perfect for alfresco dining too. Summer-weight red wines would match up nicely, especially those that could take a slight chill: low tannin, crisply finishing reds from places where drinking cooled-down reds come summer isn’t anything odd. Sure, a white or two might be nice here, but nothing beats a red’s ability to wipe fat from the palate with its tannin, or to match up hefty flavors on the plate with the same in the glass. Plus, a slight chill perks up the aromas and tastes better than serving the same red at room temperature.

The wines

2011 Joseph Drouhin Brouilly Beaujolais, Burgundy, France: From one of the cru of the region, soils heavy with granite, known for its wide-open aromas of black-red fruit, cranberry and flower blossom; soft tannin. $20

2010 Domaine Skouras Agiorgitiko Saint George, Nemea, Greece: From one of the country's great red grapes, moderate of tannin and buoyant of fruit (black cherry especially); delicious cleansing acidity. $15

2011 Kellerei Nals Margreid Schiava DOC Sud Tirol, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy: Schiava is what the South Tyroleans drink as everyday red; strawberrylike fruit accented with vanilla and brown baking spice. $15

The food: Shallot Burgers with Mustard-barbecue sauce

Melt 1 Tbsp. butter in a skillet over medium heat; add 4 sliced shallots. Cook, stirring, until softened, 5 minutes. Add 2 cloves garlic, minced; cook, 1 minute. Mix together 1 lb, ground beef, 2 Tbsp. milk and 1/2 tsp. salt; stir in shallots and garlic. Form into four patties. Cook burgers in skillet to desired doneness. Remove burgers to platter. Pour off any grease from skillet. Add 1/2 cup barbecue sauce and 1/4 cup Dijon mustard to skillet; cook, stirring up browned bits, 2 minutes. Serve burgers on toasted buns, drizzled with the sauce. Makes: 4 servings