WEST PALM BEACH, Fla. — The dog days are upon us. Those unbearably hot, humid, downright uncomfortable days in the middle of the Florida summer. These are the days so hot, we hide inside, shades drawn and A/C on full blast. Or, we run for the ocean, hoping for temps slightly below bathwater.
Our food must be light. Our drinks must be refreshing.
What makes a wine shine in soaring temperatures? Generally, a good summer white is light-bodied with fresh fruit and crisp acidity — making it a great refreshing sip on its own, or paired with lighter summer fare. A perfect example of a summer white is sauvignon blanc. But there are many others out there. Here are some alternative varietals to beat the heat.
Vinho verde
The name refers more to a style of wine and associated geographic location in northwest Portugal, rather than a specific grape. This “green wine” is light, fresh and meant to consume in its youth. The acidity is generally high and the mouthfeel is sometimes slightly effervescent. Most are simple palate cleansers. The best in the region are single-varietals made from grapes like alvarinho, loureiro or avesso.
One to try: Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho “Contacto” ($21.99, Virginia Philip Wine Shop & Academy).
This is a single-varietal wine made from alvarinho (also known as “albarino” in the neighboring Spanish region of Rias Baixas). The “contacto” in the name refers to a 12-hour cold maceration in contact with the grape skins, which results in a much richer and creamier style. This wine has an aromatic nose of fresh lime and white peach with notes of minerality and bread yeast. On palate, the wine has a smooth, creamy mouthfeel with a medium-body and dry finish.
Gruner veltliner
Although the centerpiece of Austria’s wine industry, gruner veltliner has remained fairly obscure in the U.S. until recently. The versatile and food-friendly grape can be made into wines of many different styles, which is reason for its growing popularity and celebration among sommeliers and sippers in our country.
Gruner veltliner (affectionately dubbed gru-vee) has been known to fool many into thinking it’s a curious chardonnay, riesling or pinot blanc, but it has a tell-tale finish of white pepper. It’s a dry, typically medium-bodied wine with a strong dose of acidity.
One to try: Domane Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Gruner Veltliner ($13 online).
A bright lemon-lime color in the glass, this wine has fresh green apple and citrus aromas with a strong mineral component. On palate, it is a great blend of fresh apple, citrus and melon flavors with a light, refreshing body and a clean, dry finish.
Picpoul de Pinet
Picpoul de Pinet is one of the Coteaux du Languedoc’s named crus — a geographic and qualitative designation within the larger region — located near the coast to the southwest of the city of Montpellier. The wines are made exclusively from picpoul blanc, one of the oldest grapes in this part of France. These wines balance rich texture with crisp acidity and are a great match for seafood.
One to try: Gerard Bertrand Picpoul de Pinet ($11.59, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits).
A former professional rugby player, Gerard Bertrand is one of the most famous producers in the Languedoc. He produces a large portfolio of wines, offering good quality at affordable prices. His picpoul has a light fragrance of green apple and faint grassy notes. On taste, it’s ripe and crisp with flavors of green apple, and a hint of peach and pear. It has a quick, clean finish.
Gavi
Made from the cortese grape in the northwestern Italian region of Piedmont, Gavi is a medium-bodied, easy-drinking wine with fresh, fruity notes and underlying minerality. It is the perfect match for light Mediterranean fare.
One to try: La Battistina Gavi (from $15 online).
Made from entirely estate-grown fruit in chalk rich soil, this wine is a pale yellow-green in the glass with aromas of white peach, pear and ripe citrus with earthy and floral notes. On palate, the wine is medium-bodied with a crisp acidity and clean, dry finish.
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