Turkish delight — the glorious food of Turkey

Inspired by the delicious diversity of dishes from this country of 80 million, I got ambitious and decided to make five different types of Turkish food: a soup, a small plate, a salad, a main course and a bread.

Put them all together, and you have a serious Eastern-Western feast.

All of the recipes came from my well-worn copy of “Classical Turkish Cooking,” by Ayla Algar. This is one of my go-to cookbooks, and I have never been disappointed in it.

I began with the bread, because it is such an integral part of Turkish life. The country is famous for two types of bread: pide, a flat pocket bread, usually filled with savory goodness, that is not dissimilar to pita; and simit, rings of sesame-covered dough that are slightly like bagels.

I made the simit, the sesame rings. These were exactly as advertised, crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside, a delightful combination that is getting harder to find these days.

They require a pretty fair amount of time and effort to make, but that is why they are so good. You begin with a very stiff dough and allow it to rise or rest a total of five times, for anywhere from 15 minutes to two hours. That, plus a pan of water in the oven as it bakes to give it a crunchy crust, is what gives the rings their big payoff.

Much of the flavor comes from the coating of sesame seeds, which gives the rings their distinctive taste. But there is also a hint of sweetness that comes from the diluted molasses that is used to hold them in place.

The molasses is an American substitution for pekmez, a syrup made from the juice of grapes, and it was a little too sweet for my taste. You could use less molasses in the solution if you don’t want it that sweet (and even so, it is only a little sweet), or leave it out altogether.

It is hard to think of Turkish cuisine without thinking of soup, so I made a Creamy Red Lentil Soup. There are few things better in this world than Turkish lentil soup.

This version surprised me. It’s lentil soup, but it has no lentils in it. You cook it with lentils and onions, but then you strain them out, pushing them against a sieve to extract the most flavor. The thin but hearty lentil broth is then given additional flavor and body from a roux, with extra richness coming from a mixture of egg yolk and milk.

It is a startlingly elegant treatment of the humble lentil. The soup is smooth and velvety and so good you’ll want to keep going back to the pot.

Salads are almost as important a part of the Turkish table as soups, so I made a White Bean Salad. It was exceptional.

White bean salads are hugely popular in Turkey, and after just one bite you will know why. The earthy taste of the beans is cut with thin slices of red onion and a sharp vinaigrette. Parsley brings it all together, as it so often does with Turkish food, and some helpful, rich glamour comes from wedges of a hard-cooked egg and black olives.

You can serve it either chilled or at room temperature. I tried it both ways, and I prefer it room temperature.

For a main course, I had to go with lamb. I love the spicy ground-meat patty called köfte, so I made Spicy Köfte Simmered with Eggplant, Tomatoes and Roasted Poblanos.

There was one problem: The recipe calls for Japanese eggplants, which are the variety that are long and thin. The store I went to did not happen to have them in stock when I was there, though you can usually find them in international markets.

So I used the smallest American eggplants I could find, and bought four instead of the specified eight. Even then, I couldn’t fit them all in the same pan, so I ended up using only three. That left me with the unintended but welcome result of leftover köfte to fry and eat.

The dish is great for any number of reasons, beginning with the always unbeatable pairing of eggplant and lamb. The fresh tomato sauce that it is cooked in, flavored enthusiastically with onion and garlic, adds a bright pop to the dish.

The köfte that is stuffed inside the eggplant is spicy — you could leave out the crushed red pepper, if you wanted — and a little bit of extra heat comes from the roasted poblano peppers that are cooked on top.

I have no idea what poblano peppers are doing in a Turkish dish, but they add a mild, umami zing that makes the meal irresistible.

I couldn’t let my culinary tour of Turkey end without an example of meze, small dishes that are like tapas. When I saw a recipe for Roasted Red Peppers With Garlic and Vinegar, I knew that was the one for me.

Basically, you roast red peppers, and then briefly marinate them in red wine vinegar, garlic, salt and a sprinkling of fresh thyme. Simple, right?

Simple, and amazingly good. The marinade ever-so-slightly pickles the peppers. And yes, you’ll want to eat them by the peck.

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 SESAME RINGS (SIMIT) 

Yield: 8 servings

3 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast

Pinch of granulated sugar

1/4 cup warm water

4 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

1 cup (or so) lukewarm water

2 cups molasses, see note

2 cups water

1 to 2 cups sesame seeds

Note: The molasses gives the rings a mildly sweet note. For less sweetness, use 1 cup molasses, or even less.

1. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in 1/4 cup warm water and let stand 10 minutes in a warm place until frothy.

2. Place the flour on the work surface, make a well in the center and put in the yeast mixture, salt and 1 cup lukewarm water. Gradually work in the flour to make a very stiff dough. If you have a heavy-duty mixer, it is best to knead 10 minutes with the dough hook. By hand, knead it at least 15 minutes, until the dough is very smooth and springy. Put the dough in a buttered bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise 2 hours.

3. Knead the dough a few times on a lightly floured work surface, roll into a log and divide into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a tight ball and let rest under a slightly damp towel about 30 minutes.

4. Roll each ball into a 14-inch long rope. Hold down one end of the rope with one hand while twisting it with the other. Then form this twisted rope into a ring, pressing and rolling the overlapping ends together on the work surface with one hand to seal. Place on a greased baking sheet and let rest 1 hour.

5. Dissolve the molasses in 2 cups of water in a bowl. Put the sesame seeds in another bowl and set it next to the molasses water. Dip each ring in molasses water first, then in the sesame seeds, making sure the ring is completely and thickly coated with the seeds on all sides. Put it back on the baking sheet and let rest 30 minutes.

6. Preheat oven to 500 degrees and heat a pizza stone or baking sheet in the oven 30 minutes before baking. Put a few cups of water in an ovenproof pan and place it in the oven.

7. Meanwhile, take each ring and rotate it gently through your hands, enlarging it into a 7-inch circle. Place the rings back on the baking sheet and let rest 15 minutes or until well puffed. Carefully place each ring on the hot pizza stone while it is in the oven. Bake about 15 to 20 minutes until rich brown in color. Cover with foil if they get too brown before they are done.

8. These are best eaten fresh out of the oven, but they will be good all day. You can also reheat them wrapped in foil to freshen them.

 Per serving: 234 calories; 1 g fat; no saturated fat; no cholesterol; 7 g protein; 49 g carbohydrate; 1 g sugar; 2 g fiber; 365 mg sodium; 10 mg calcium

Adapted from “Classical Turkish Cooking,” by Ayla Algar

 CREAMY RED LENTIL SOUP

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1 cup red lentils

1 1/2 cups chopped onions

4 tablespoons butter, divided, plus more for croutons

6 1/2 cups chicken or meat stock

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 or 2 egg yolks

1 cup milk

Salt

3/4 cup small bread cubes

1. Pick over the lentils, wash, drain and reserve.

2. Sauté the onions in a saucepan in 2 tablespoons of the butter until golden. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Stir in the lentils cover and simmer gently for 25 to 30 minutes, until they are very soft. Pass the lentils through a sieve, pressing against them, and reserve liquid, discarding the residue.

3. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy pan, add the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or so, until the flour turns deep golden. Stirring continuously with one hand, pour in the lentil liquid. Simmer the soup, stirring frequently, over low heat for 3 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk with the milk. Season with salt.

4. Whisk some hot soup into the egg mixture and then pour it all back into the soup while stirring. Bring it to just under boiling. Meanwhile, fry the bread cubes in hot butter until golden and crispy. Serve the soup hot with croutons.

Per serving (based on 4): 423 calories; 20 g fat; 11 g saturated fat; 127 mg cholesterol; 19 g protein; 44 g carbohydrate; 8 g sugar; 12 g fiber; 1,467 mg sodium; 164 mg calcium

Nutrition analysis used whole milk and unsalted butter in calculation Adapted from “Classical Turkish Cooking,” by Ayla Algar

 WHITE BEAN SALAD 

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1 cup dried white beans, soaked in water to cover overnight, or 2 (15-ounce) cans white beans

1/2 large red onion, cut into paper-thin slices

Salt

1/2 cup fine olive oil

5 tablespoons (or more to taste) red wine vinegar

1 1/4 cups chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided

2 hard-cooked eggs, cut into wedges

Black olives

Drain the beans. If using soaked, dried beans, bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the beans and cook until tender. Drain and put in a bowl with the onions. Season with salt, olive oil and vinegar. Stir in 1 cup parsley and let stand at least 1 hour. This salad will keep for 2 or 3 days in the refrigerator. Just before serving, place in a bowl, sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup parsley, and decorate with egg wedges and olives. Serve at room temperature or cold.

 Per serving (based on 4): 459 calories; 33 g fat; 5 g saturated fat; 92 mg cholesterol; 16 g protein; 33 g carbohydrate; 2 g sugar; 8 g fiber; 51 mg sodium; 153 mg calcium

Adapted from “Classical Turkish Cooking,” by Ayla Algar

 SPICY KÖFTE SIMMERED WITH EGGPLANT, TOMATOES AND ROASTED POBLANOS

Yield 4 servings

1 pound ground lamb (or turkey)

1/2 onion, minced

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided

Salt and black pepper

8 small Japanese eggplants or 4 very small American eggplants

2 large poblanos or 4 Hungarian green peppers or tender long green peppers

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups finely chopped onions

4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 teaspoons minced garlic

Splash of vinegar

1. Combine the lamb, onion, cumin, pepper flakes and 1/2 cup of the parsley in a bowl. Mix thoroughly and season with salt and pepper. Divide into 8 equal portions. Shape each into a flattened, sausage-shaped patty, 6 inches long and 1/4 inch thick. Set aside.

2. Remove the tops of the eggplants. Beginning at the stem side, cut each one through the center lengthwise, stopping 1 inch from the other end. If using American eggplants, cut out a slice at least 1-inch wide from the middle, stopping 1 inch from the bottom end, and discard. Place 1 patty in each Japanese eggplant — or 2 in each American eggplant —between the two separated halves. Place the eggplants side by side in a large shallow pan.

3. Meanwhile, roast the peppers directly over a gas flame or charcoal grill, turning frequently until charred all over. (Alternatively, preheat oven to 400 degrees, line a baking sheet with foil, place peppers on the prepared baking sheet and roast 20 minutes, turn peppers over and roast another 20 minutes until charred and somewhat deflated). Transfer charred peppers to a plastic bag to steam for 20 minutes. Peel the peppers, top, seed and halve them. If you use Hungarian peppers or tender, long, green peppers, leave them whole.

4. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and cook the onions 8 minutes until they begin to brown around the edges. Stir in the tomatoes and garlic, and simmer them, mashing down with a fork until they form a sauce, about 5 minutes or so. Remove from heat and add the remaining 1/2 cup parsley, season with salt, pepper and a splash of vinegar. The sauce should have a slight tang. Pour this sauce over the eggplants along with 1/4 cup of water. Place the peppers on top, cover and simmer about 35 to 40 minutes, until the eggplants are very tender. Check occasionally and add a little water if necessary. Serve hot.

Per serving: 512 calories; 23 g fat; 7 g saturated fat; 70 mg cholesterol; 28 g protein; 57 g carbohydrate; 32 g sugar; 25 g fiber; 676 mg sodium; 147 mg calcium

Adapted from Classical Turkish Cooking,” by Ayla Algar

 ROASTED RED PEPPERS WITH GARLIC AND VINEGAR 

Yield: 6 servings

6 red bell peppers

1 tablespoon minced garlic

3/4 cup red wine vinegar

Salt to taste

Fresh thyme leaves

1. Roast the peppers directly over a gas flame or charcoal grill, turning frequently until charred all over. (Alternatively, preheat oven to 400 degrees, line a baking sheet with foil, place peppers on the prepared baking sheet and roast 20 minutes, turn peppers over and roast another 20 minutes until charred and somewhat deflated). Transfer charred peppers to a plastic bag to steam for 5 to 10 minutes. Peel or scrape off the charred skin, remove stem and seeds, and cut lengthwise into 4 or 5 pieces. Put the peppers and any juices in a bowl.

2. Combine the garlic, vinegar and salt. Pour over the peppers and sprinkle the thyme leaves on top. Refrigerate several hours, arrange on a serving dish and serve at room temperature.

 Per serving: 45 calories; no fat; no saturated fat; no cholesterol; 1 g protein; 8 g carbohydrate; 5 g sugar; 3 g fiber; 6 mg sodium; 13 mg calcium

Adapted from “Classical Turkish Cooking,” by Ayla Algar