Tangy pinot for an earthy mushroom pasta dish

One school of thought about pairing wine and food says just match the flavors of both the food and the wine. Cilantro? Sauvignon blanc. Apple tart? Semi-sweet riesling. But sadly, this idea also has spawned wacky shotgun marriages such as serving merlot with raw oysters and boysenberry coulis. (Dysfunctional on a few levels.) Pairing today’s dish, however, with a woodsy, earthy, mushroom-y pinot noir would work well, not because of the matches in both flavor and aroma but because of pinot noir’s native tangy acidity and its generally moderate tannin and alcohol. Aromas and flavors are just great extras.

The food: Woodsy mushroom pasta

Cook 1/2 lb. spaghetti in plenty of salted boiling water until done. Meanwhile, crisp 2 slices chopped bacon in a skillet, 4 minutes. Add 1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in 1/2 lb. sliced shiitake mushrooms; cook until softened. Drain pasta, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water. Pour enough pasta water into the mushrooms to make a sauce; cook, stirring, to deglaze the pan, about 1 minute. Stir in 2 Tbsp. butter. Toss pasta with the mushrooms; serve sprinkled with chopped parsley, grated Parmesan cheese and 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts.