This dish, with its rich, smoky and spicy qualities, needs a wine that can stand up to it. In addition to having enough ripe fruit for the job, these three whites — from Spain, Oregon and California — also deliver various herbal and spicy notes all their own.
Make this: Chipotle Salmon Tacos
Rub cooked salmon fillets (10 ounces) with 1 teaspoon canola oil; sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon ground chipotle chile pepper and a pinch of salt. Wrap in foil; place on a baking sheet. Bake at 350 to heat through and infuse with chipotle flavor, 5 minutes. Flake salmon with a fork. Stir together 1/2 cup sour cream, 1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill, 1 tablespoon lime juice and a pinch of salt. Divide 1 cup chopped fresh spinach and salmon among 8 flour tortillas. Top with lime dill sauce, sliced red onions, cotija cheese and cilantro. Makes: 8 tacos
Adapted from “Love Your Leftovers” by Nick Evans.
Drink this
Pairings by sommelier Rachael Lowe of Spiaggia, as told to Michael Austin:
2014 Palacios Remondo Placet Rioja Blanco, Rioja, Spain: Made of 100 percent viura, this wine was aged in oak and in the bottle before release. Its aromas of golden apple, Bosc pear, dried herbs and white spice will stand up to the salmon’s richness, while the wine’s hint of smoke will complement the dish’s chipotle flavors.
2014 Brandborg Gewurztraminer, Elkton, Oregon: This aromatic wine offers honeysuckle, lemon meringue pie, cardamom, lime blossom and lychee. It is ripe almost to the point of being off-dry, but with enough acidity to balance the richness of the salmon and sour cream. Plus, its aromas will counter the chipotle’s smoke and spice.
2014 The Calling Dutton Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, California: This well-balanced yet rich wine spent 18 months in new French oak barrels. Notes of lemon curd, button mushroom, ripe pineapple, marzipan, vanilla and a touch of thyme will complement the salmon, the dish’s herbal components, and the cotija cheese.
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