Parsnips

“The parsnip is a seductive crop,” says Cory Mosser of Natural Born Tillers. “People love it and we all try to grow it. I have planted almost $100 worth of parsnip seeds twice, and just didn’t get the germination.”

According to Mosser, it’s all about the germination. Up north, parsnips are started in July when soil temperatures are cool and the ground is moist. In the South, July finds air temperatures at 95 degrees and the soil almost as warm.

“I’ve had success when I’ve used row cover to keep the soil moist and shaded, and irrigation along with that. It takes two to three weeks for parsnip seeds to germinate, so you’ve got to keep the soil moist during that whole period. The weeds germinate faster, so you’ve got to stay on top of them, too,” he says.

It takes 110 to 120 days to grow a parsnip, so those summer-planted seeds develop roots ready for harvesting around mid-November. With the right conditions, parsnips can overwinter and hold on until the middle of February. “You just have to get them past the germination stage and keep the weeds off them. Then they do well,” says Mosser.

He also notes there’s a reason you never see them with their tops whether at the grocery store or the local farmers market. “The greens have a strong irritant. You have to harvest them with gloves on,” he says, and many state cooperative extension services report cases of skin rash and blisters from exposure to the plant’s sap.

The roots themselves, though, are perfectly edible and quite delicious. They’re related to carrots, but have a flavor that’s sweeter and a bit spicy, reminiscent of nutmeg and cinnamon.

Parsnips should be stored in the coldest and most humid part of your refrigerator, usually the vegetable crisper. Wrapped in paper towels and then loosely wrapped in plastic, they can last for months. Parsnips generally have a thin skin and may only need scrubbing before being cooked.

Formerly farm manager for Burge Organic Farm in Mansfield, Mosser has begun a new venture, www.naturalborntillers.com. He helps farmers with organic certification, production planning and management practices. But his passion is helping new farming operations get up and running. "I can talk about how and what to grow, like maybe not starting with parsnips your first year," he laughs.

Another aspect of his new business is tool-sharing. “Farm equipment is expensive, and its sits around for a lot of the year. I can make equipment available for farmers and also help with some of the big jobs like laying plastic and doing the transplanting. It lets me get my hands dirty,” he says.

“There are a lot of people getting into farming, and the failure rate is really high. When I started, I really needed someone who had experience help me avoid making mistakes. Georgia has 25,000 farms and only 70 are certified organic. If water continues to be a problem in California, and with the growing desire for local organic produce, there are going to be a lot more organic growers in Georgia.”

Parsnip Cream with Poached Eggs

Franck Steigerwald, Executive Chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead, created this dish just right for a winter brunch or dinner.

2 pounds parsnips

12 cloves garlic, divided

8 ounces unsalted butter, divided

2 cups heavy cream

Salt and pepper

8 eggs

1/4 pound shaved Parmesan

Olive oil, microgreens or finely sliced chives, for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Have a rimmed baking sheet ready.

Peel parsnips and put a quarter of the parsnips on a 12-inch square piece of foil. Add 3 garlic cloves and 2 ounces (1/2 stick) butter. Seal foil tightly. Repeat with remaining parsnips. Arrange the four packages of parsnips on rimmed baking sheet and roast until parsnips are completely tender, about 30 minutes.

When parsnips are tender, put contents of parsnip packages including garlic and any released juices in the bowl of a food processor and blend until smooth. Add cream and season to taste. Keep warm.

When ready to serve, make poached eggs. In a medium saucepan, bring 3 inches of water to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer. Add vinegar to the water. Break each egg into a cup or saucer and then holding the cup or saucer close to the surface of the water, carefully slip the egg into the water. Add remaining eggs, one at a time. Cook the eggs until the whites are completely set, about 4 minutes. Lift the egg from the water with a slotted spoon, pat dry.

Arrange poached egg in the center of a rimmed soup plate. Pour parsnip cream around egg. Divide Parmesan over eggs, drizzle with olive oil and garnish with greens. Serve immediately. Serves: 8

Per serving: 684 calories (percent of calories from fat, 78), 15 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 60 grams fat (36 grams saturated), 382 milligrams cholesterol, 387 milligrams sodium.