Acidity is the key to wine matches with this dish, because it’s about the only wine component that can pair favorably with any acidity in the food (and we have the queen of acids here, lemon juice), as well as with salt (Kalamata olives). The other food elements such as pasta and chicken breast are simply a canvas; they’re the most flexible components. The possible wines, though, are nearly endless, in a range of colors and styles. That’s what is recommended; just avoid high-extract, low-acid reds and whites such as shiraz, merlot or chardonnay made in warm climates.

The food: Orzo with Pesto and Chicken

Cook 1 package (12 ounces) orzo or another small pasta shape according to package directions, reserving 1/4 cup pasta cooking liquid. Meanwhile, grill or saute 2 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, pounded to an even thickness, turning once, until cooked through, 10-15 minutes. Coarsely chop into bite-size pieces. Combine pasta, 1/4 cup prepared pesto and 20 pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped, in a large bowl. Stir in chicken and the zest and juice of 1 lemon (optional), or to taste; season with pepper to taste. Add a little pasta cooking water, if the dish seems dry. Makes: 6 servings

Recipe by Renee Enna

The wines

2014 Weingut Leitz Pinot Noir Rosé, Rudesheim, Rheingau, Germany: Made at the upper limits of latitudinal tolerance for pinot and, so, it’s limpid, delicate, gorgeously perfumed, with hints of minerals and great acidity. $17

2013 Domaine Henri Poiron Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, Loire, France: One of the world’s best-kept wine secrets is Muscadet; choose it if you want crispness in a wine married to maximum flavor. $12-$14

2014 Skouras White “Zoe,” Peloponnese, Greece: A blend of Roditis and moschofilero grapes for big open aromas of white blossoms and fresh pears; refreshingly crisp and zesty. $12