If you’re going to grill ribs this Fourth of July holiday, take the time to do them right.
Those who take their ribs seriously say slow and low is the way to go.
And if you’ve never tried using smoke to infuse flavor into your grilled ribs, here’s your chance. It takes a little bit of patience, some skill and judgment. You need to know your grill and know your fire.
Low and slow means indirect heat between 250 to 275 degrees. Be sure to have a temperature gauge handy if you don’t have one attached to your grill. For those using charcoal grills, it means getting the coals going and then maintaining a steady temperature. It’s a bit easier on gas grills, because you just need to turn burners down or off to control the heat.
Baby back ribs grilled low and slow yield tender meat with a little chew to it. Today’s ribs recipe - adapted from Steven Raichlen, one of the best-known grill masters - is one of my favorites. It makes enough to feed a small crowd of rib lovers. What takes this recipe to another level is the bourbon soak and the bourbon barbecue sauce. But use a good-quality bourbon, like Woodford Reserve. Its smooth flavor adds a nice depth-of-flavor to the ribs and the sauce.
Here are some more tips to help you present a platter of perfectly seasoned and grilled ribs:
Choosing: Baby back ribs are my preference for the grill. They come from the top loin upper rib cage and most are well-trimmed. Look for slabs that are lean and meaty, uniform in size and have good fat marbling.
Prepping: Remove the thin membrane on the underside of the ribs. Some sources say to leave it on for flavor, but I prefer not to. To remove it, starting at one end, slip the tip of a paring knife under the membrane to loosen it. Grab the loosened end with a paper towel and pull off the membrane. It should come off in one piece.
Soaking: This is optional, but many times I cut the slab in two or three pieces and place them in a baking dish or plastic bag. I pour Vernors or bourbon over them and let them soak overnight. Pour off the liquid and season before cooking.
Seasoning: Using a rub adds a layer of flavor. You can rub the ribs just before putting them on the grill, but it’s better to apply the rub and let them sit for a while. You can rub them, cover and refrigerate them overnight. Be sure to apply the rub to both sides of the ribs.
Sweet-and-smoky baby back ribs
Serves: 8 / Preparation time: 30 minutes (plus chilling time)
Total time: 2 hours
Ribs
4 to 6 racks baby back ribs
1 1/2 cups good quality bourbon
Rub
3 tablespoons coarse salt
3 tablespoons packed brown sugar
3 tablespoons paprika (regular or smoked)
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon chili powder
Grill
2 cups hickory wood chips
2 cups beer
Sauce
Bourbon Barbecue Sauce (see note)
Remove the thin membrane on the back of the ribs, starting at one end of the rack and pulling toward the other. Unless you are using a rib rack, cut the ribs into four or five portions so that they will fit nicely on the grill. Place the ribs in a large roasting pan and pour the bourbon over them. Chill them for about an hour, turning the ribs often. Pour off and discard the bourbon.
Meanwhile, whisk together all the rub ingredients in a small bowl. Sprinkle the rub mixture over both sides of the ribs.
Refrigerate 1 hour. Meanwhile, place the wood chips in a medium bowl and pour the beer over them. Let stand 1 hour.
Preheat or prepare the grill for indirect cooking, meaning you will cook the ribs away from the heat source.
Remove 1 cup of the wood chips from the beer and drain. Scatter the chips over the coals. Fill a foil loaf pan halfway with water and place opposite the coals. Place grill grate on grill. If using a gas grill, put the soaked chips in a foil packet with holes poked in it or use a smoker box.
Arrange ribs on the grate above the loaf pan and away from the direct heat.
Close the lid, positioning the top vent directly over the ribs. Check the temperature by placing the stem of an instant-read thermometer through the vent with the gauge on the outside, it should register about 325 degrees. After about 40 minutes, the temperature will start dipping down but don’t let it fall below 275 degrees. Adjust vents if needed by opening them wider to increase the heat or closing to decrease the heat.
You can heat more charcoal briquettes in a charcoal chimney starter to have ready in case the temperature dips below 275 degrees. Use tongs to add briquettes.
If you need to add more wood chips, drain the remaining 1 cup of wood chips and sprinkle over the charcoal. Place the grate with the ribs back on the grill, cover and continue cooking until the ribs are very tender and the meat pulls away from the bones, about 45 minutes longer.
During the last 15 minutes of grilling, brush on the sauce.
To make the Bourbon Barbecue Sauce: In a large, heavy saucepan, whisk together 2 cups ketchup, 1/2 cup mild-flavored molasses, 1/3 cup bourbon, 1/4 cup Dijon mustard, 3 tablespoons favorite hot pepper sauce, 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, 2 teaspoons paprika, 1 teaspoon garlic powder and 1 teaspoon onion powder. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, stirring frequently, until the sauce thickens and the flavors blend, about 15 minutes.
Adapted from Bon Appetit July 2000 issue and tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.
443 calories (53 percent from fat), 26 g fat (10 g saturated fat), 26 g carbohydrates, 26 g protein, 1,035 mg sodium, 103 mg cholesterol, 1 g fiber.
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