Wines from France, Spain and France play with the sweetness of caramelized onions, the richness of brioche and the light texture of ground turkey in this twist on a burger.
The food:
Open-face turkey-onion burgers
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium heat; add 1 sliced Spanish onion. Cook, stirring, until onions are caramelized, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, gently mix together 1 pound ground turkey, 1/2 cup half-and-half, 4 minced green onions, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon thyme. Form into 4 thick patties. Cook patties in a skillet over medium heat until lightly browned on both sides and cooked through. Serve on toasted brioche buns spread with mayonnaise, garnished with lettuce, tomato and caramelized onion. Makes: 4 servings
The wines
Pairings by sommelier Rachael Lowe, wine director for Spiaggia and Spiaggia Cafe in Chicago, as told to Michael Austin:
2013 La Pietra di Tommasone, Biancolella, Ischia, Campania, Italy: Biancollela is a local grape variety, not found outside of the region. This wine is round in texture, with an almost ciderlike aroma. Its notes of apricot, bruised golden apple, honeycomb and a touch of hazelnut will pair well with the lighter meat of the turkey while integrating the sweetness of the caramelized onions and the richness of the brioche bun.
2006 Lopez de Heredia Vina Cubillo, Crianza, Rioja, Spain: This winery is known for holding back vintages, releasing wines with more bottle age and thus, greater drinkability. The Vina Cubillo is mostly tempranillo with small amounts of mazuelo and garnacha. Aged for three years in oak, its bing cherry, macerated strawberry, dried herbs and a touch of leather will complement the dried thyme in the turkey and garnishes, while also standing up to the sweet onions.
2010 Domaine de la Charbonniere, Vacqueyras, Rhone Valley, France: This stunning wine shows a mix of bright red and black fruits such as black currant, brambly raspberry and plum skin, plus garrigue and pepper. The texture of the turkey, mayonnaise and buttery brioche will be cut by the acidity and light tannin, while the secondary notes of sage, tarragon and rosemary will interlace beautifully with the vegetable and herb components of the dish.
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