Between the elk, venison and fish harvested by the First Nations and the pork-heavy diet of the French settlers, Canadian cuisine has always been known for its protein. But the Canadian steakhouse got a modern twist in early 2015 with Uptown Cut, a chef-focused spot that brings a tasting-menu approach to a classic concept.
The owner, Cole Snell, used to practice naturopathic medicine in Toronto. After seeing patients struggle to find nutritious but tasty food, he opened a chain of shops selling sustainably made cheeses and a distribution company for artisanal foods. Snell said that not just the vegetables but the indulgences on his menu should be produced more sustainably. When he moved to Thunder Bay, the border city of 108,000 on the shore of Lake Superior, where his parents live, he saw an opportunity to take those insights with him.
Snell’s long-term goal is to boost what he calls an undervalued local beef industry by positioning Ontario beef as a premium product. Uptown Cut is the first salvo in that campaign, a bridge between the modern and the traditional.
“Hopefully, customers walk away with some knowledge or education,” Snell said. “This is new stuff for Thunder Bay.”
That educational focus was in clear view during a recent visit. Before our first plate came out, our server delivered charmingly earnest lectures on topics ranging from “why we write the menu on chalkboards” to “the chef as artist.” The best part of the syllabus, though, was the food itself.
An ultraluxurious foie gras croquette was battered and fried, then served with sour cherry jam. A homemade uova da raviolo was nearly as rich, with a thick dollop of ricotta and shavings of Parmesan. There were acidic vegetable counterpoints — a cilantro- and jalapeño-pickled cherry tomato was refreshing, as were the house-pickled beans — but meat was clearly the focus.
Along with dry-aged steaks, Uptown Cut specializes in wagyu, an intensely marbled beef that comes from certain cattle breeds native to Japan. The thin strips of meat were seared on each side, with a crisp exterior and a bright pink center. It was the best steak of my life: hauntingly tender and melting with fat.
Parked outside was a Ford F-150 with the restaurant’s logo. It was a reminder of Uptown Cut’s attitude: a fresh look with solid country roots.
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