A handheld homage to friendship and a sushi bite that inspired an entire restaurant are among this month’s dishes worth trying when you dine out in metro Atlanta.
Samigo sandwich at Sammy’s
Sam Pinner isn’t just the chef at Sammy’s; he’s also the namesake for every sandwich on the menu at the Adair Park spot that he opened with longtime friend Jason Furst.
It’s no coincidence that the Samigo, a sandwich named in honor of buddies, shows a perfect camaraderie between ingredients.
The sandwich, cut into two portions, begins with a bolillo made fresh daily at local bakery El Progresso.
The small, oblong Mexican roll had a crusty exterior and a soft, velvety crumble. It was light and pillowy, but hefty enough to stand up to the layers of fresh elements.
Juicy, flavorful turkey was piled high; avocado added flavor and helped to bind, along with shredded lettuce and slices of tomato. A savory crunch came from chopped onion, bits of jalapeño provided heat, and the ranch dressing added a creamy coolness. Everything was punched up with cilantro.
It was an edible monument to friendship that I can’t wait to revisit.
Sammy’s. 565 Northside Drive SW, Atlanta. sammysatl.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Frittatine cacio and pepe at Nonna Dora
Many beloved Italian dishes originated as a way to repurpose leftovers. It makes perfect sense for a cuisine focused on simplicity and the use of quality ingredients. Arancini makes use of surplus rice and panzanella takes care of bread and vegetable scraps.
At Sandy Springs newcomer Nonna Dora, the frittatine cacio and pepe begins with house-made bucatini, an extruded spaghetti-like pasta with a hole running through it.
Grated pecorino Romano, a salty sheep’s milk cheese, is the essential “cacio” part of the three-ingredient Neapolitan dish. Fresh-cracked black pepper is the “pepe.”
The small bundles, featuring a béchamel sauce, grana Padano cheese (similar to Parmesan) and a light batter coating, were fried.
The pasta fritters arrived golden, crisp and with a soft interior. Each bite was crunchy, salty and cheesy, with a peppery kick. I took an order to go and can confirm they were just as good cold, still highlighting those quality Italian flavors.
Nonna Dora. 1100 Hammond Drive, Sandy Springs. 404-831-3781, nonnadoraatl.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Yellowtail and salsa handroll at Cuddlefish
The experience of eating handrolls (temaki) is one that chef Jason Liang felt worthy of its own restaurant.
Handrolls differ from typical sushi rolls (maki) in that they are left whole and not cut into bite-size pieces. They still are composed of seasoned sushi rice layered with ingredients and wrapped in nori (seaweed) but are shaped like a cylinder or a cone. What sets a handroll apart is the crispness of the nori.
The rolls are assembled by hand, then presented to you in a wooden serving block.
I’ve ordered sets of handrolls or individual temaki when dining at Cuddlefish. One stood out: Yellowtail and salsa temaki highlighted the quality and flavor of each individual element.
Thinly sliced yellowtail (hamachi) was soft and rich next to a layer of seasoned rice. The firm flesh was mildly sweet, especially with the addition of a bright mix of jalapeño and cilantro. It was a little fiery, flavorful and had just the right kick.
Strands of fried leeks were a brittle, smoky embellishment, but it was the crunch of the nori that really set off the experience.
Cuddlefish. 290 High St., Dunwoody. 678-994-2715, cuddlefishatl.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Cured steelhead trout at Ticonderoga Club
On hot summer evenings, the dim coolness of Ticonderoga Club is just right. What nights like this call for is an equally cooling dish that lights up with flavor. Cured steelhead trout dazzles for that reason, as well as for its vibrant colors and textures.
Lightly cured steelhead trout — similar to sockeye salmon — was sliced into bite-size portions that showed off the tasty lines of fat and provided a nice chew. The pieces of trout, leaves and sauces rested in stunning fashion against the backdrop of a white bowl.
The magic of this dish lies in its balance of rich flavors and garnishes.
Slick white cubes of crunchy jicama stood out, especially with a scattering of black sesame seeds. The seeds were mild, yet nutty, and added depth, enhancing the flavor of the jicama. Slivers of scallion were scattered atop the dish.
Deep flavor came from the marinade/broth. It was sweet, spicy, clean, acidic and packed with umami. A server overheard me mention that I could finish the standing broth in my bowl if I had a spoon. Seconds later, a spoon appeared — and I ate the broth as if it were soup.
Ticonderoga Club. 99 Krog St. NE, Atlanta. 404-458-4534, ticonderogaclub.com
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