After a summer of guzzling rosé and crisp white wines, our palates are ready for something more in line with cooler weather.
White wines with more texture, and reds with more spice and earth notes, not only match the season, but pair well with the current bounty of apples, squash and root vegetables.
Chardonnay, lambrusco and carignan are three types of wine that are terrific for cool nights, and offer versatile pairings with the heartier foods of fall. We like the ease of stocking several of these wines, because we know they’ll be harmonious with whatever early autumn produce we encounter at the farmers market.
Chardonnay is the comfort food of white wines. For those who might cringe at the stereotypical “oaky-buttery” descriptions of this variety, keep in mind that, like every grape, chardonnay is made into wines of varying styles.
For early fall in Georgia, we seek out chardonnays from cooler climates, with notes of apple and pear, and from producers who use a subtle touch of oak to achieve roundness and creaminess. We currently are smitten with the latest vintage by Oregon winery Fossil & Fawn. It’s an elegant and well-balanced chardonnay that pairs perfectly with butternut squash soup.
Lambrusco is another variety that we highly encourage you to explore this autumn. The distinctly rich, red sparkling wine from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy is the perfect bubbly for when beach drinks give way to fire pit sips. It is the perfect partner for cheeses and cured meats — cocktail hour snacks that never go out of season.
Seek out the deep, dry styles made from the grasparossa grape, which are layered with flavors of black cherry, roasted meat and dark minerality. The lightly fizzy version from Fattoria Moretto is our current favorite. Another recommendation is Denny Bini Lambrusco Dell’Emilia.
Typically grown in southern France (but with roots in Spain), the carignan grape often is found as a small percentage in a blend, especially those of the Côtes du Rhône. Yet, carignan is having a big moment with California producers.
Wines made with carignan can range from light and chillable (like a juicy Beaujolais) to plush and more full-bodied. They tend to be rustic and lightly earthy, with predominantly red fruit flavors, like strawberry, cranberry or mulberry. Dashe Cellars les Enfants Terribles old vine carignan is a particular favorite for the season, to pair with chili and other stews.
Look for these labels at 3 Parks Wine Shop, Ansley Wine Merchant, Hop City and Perrine’s Wine Shop.
The Slaters are beverage industry veterans and the proprietors of the Expat and the Lark Winespace in Athens.
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