Leeks are an undersung spring vegetable. Sure, asparagus and artichokes are delicious, and ramps are an earthy treat, but leeks are some of the most versatile and surprising seasonal produce you can find right now. They can be roasted, sauteed or braised; they can be cooked into the aromatic beginnings of a dish or served on their own as a main course; and they can be simmered into a braise as one would hearty potatoes and root vegetables to lighten up such a dish for springtime.
One leek-filled braise I’m particularly fond of is made with chicken thighs, lots of chopped fresh tarragon, and a big splash of lemon juice. And yes, you can pull off a full-flavored braised dish in less than 30 minutes, as long as you (as usual) shop with care and slice the leeks into smallish pieces.
Using boneless, skinless thighs means you can get to a fork-tender texture with less than 20 minutes of braising time, and breaking the leeks down into 1/2-inch-thick batons gives the dish substance without needing an extended cooking time.
I also like to cut down a bit on cooking time by starting the leeks in a cold pan. Since I’m not trying to sear the cut sides, they don’t need to be dropped into hot oil; it works just as well to heat them up with the oil.
My final time-saving trick is to use a relatively wide cooking vessel for the braise. An 11- or 12-inch saute pan with high, straight sides is the best tool for the job, but a large Dutch oven will also work. The increased surface area of these pans means the cooking liquid will come to a boil faster and more of the meat and vegetables will make contact with the hot liquid, which decreases the total cooking time.
Serve the chicken and leeks with plenty of steamed rice for soaking up all of the flavor-packed cooking liquid.
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