As third-generation Mexican-Americans living in South Texas, the Garza family regularly ate breakfasts and dinners together centered on dishes that had been baked into their heritage for generations.
Then, in 1999, one of the siblings, Veronica (Vero for short), was diagnosed with several autoimmune conditions. Her brother Roberto found some research suggesting her diet may be contributing to the problem. To show their solidarity, the rest of the family joined her in eliminating grains and other ingredients such as dairy that could be producing negative side effects. And in time, they all began to feel healthier and more energetic.
But they dearly missed the long-held favorites that connected them to their culture. So Vero set out to recreate grain-free, dairy-free versions. After many failed batches, her almond-flour tortillas finally won their abuela’s seal of approval.
In 2014, those creations became the foundation for Siete Family Foods, a homegrown enterprise distributing grain-, gluten-, and dairy-free products to supermarkets across the country. Now the five siblings and their parents have joined forces to share the wholesome, tradition-inspired dishes that grace their table today.
“The Siete Table: Nourishing Mexican-American Recipes From Our Kitchen” (Harper Wave, $35) begins with descriptions of the grain-free tortilla varieties they’ve created, along with other pantry staples that have led them to their health goals: almond and cassava flours, cashew crema, coconut aminos, piloncillo, tamarind, a variety of chiles.
Within these bright, inviting pages, you’ll find simple formulas for the grain-free masa they use for tamales and empanadas, and for the cashew crema that can stand in for cream cheese in Enchiladas Suizas. To go full vegan, you can replace the chicken in that recipe for Vegan Shredded “Meat” made of jackfruit.
Other clever substitutions include briny hearts of palm for fish in ceviche, gluten-free spaghetti for wheat noodles in the Mexican soup known as sopa de fideo, and three plant-based milks and coconut whipped cream for their dairy counterparts in a stunning-looking tres leches cake.
Each recipe is designed to be easily tweaked as needed so that, as the Garza family puts it, “there’s no crowd they can’t satisfy.”
Susan Puckett is a cookbook author and former food editor of The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Follow her at susanpuckett.com.
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