When Clarence and Donnica Boston bought the old Piccadilly cafeteria in Stone Mountain, they planned to turn it into a funeral home. Instead, they decided to make beer.
“We like making beer more than we like embalming bodies,” jokes Clarence, co-owner of Hippin Hops Brewery, believed to be the first African American-owned craft brewery in Georgia. Now, the North Carolina native wants Hippin Hops to be “the Black Anheuser-Busch.”
“That’s what we are working toward,” said Clarence, 44, who got his first funeral home job in his hometown of Reidsville, North Carolina, at age 13 and, after some success in the industry, began to open bars and restaurants with Donnica. The Bostons — Donnica is a lawyer and mortician — have gone from selling caskets and comforting the bereaved to a livelier calling in food and drink.
Credit: Mia Yakel
Credit: Mia Yakel
After unveiling the first Hippin Hops in April — in the old East Lake Pharmacy on Glenwood Avenue in East Atlanta — the entrepreneurial Bostons are preparing to open a second spot — on Hosea Williams Drive in East Lake — by Halloween. The former Piccadilly space on Memorial Drive will serve as their production facility.
Credit: NIkole B. Still
Credit: NIkole B. Still
Clarence, who learned the ways of grains, hops and yeast as a homebrewer, makes wonderful IPAs, ales and sours that pair nicely with cuisine inspired by Donnica’s home state of Louisiana. The East Atlanta space, which has picnic tables out front and a tented patio on one side, packs many uses into one cozy space.
Credit: Mia Yakel
Credit: Mia Yakel
Part brewery, part taproom, part oyster bar, part fry house, Hippin Hops is a rare specimen among local craft breweries: a place where oysters, be they freshly shucked and served on ice, fried and tucked into po’boys, or broiled with gooey cheese and other toppings, are king. In fact, it was when I noticed something called Oysters Collardfeller on the menu that I knew I had to check it out.
Credit: Wendell Brock
Credit: Wendell Brock
Where classic Oysters Rockefeller are topped with a rich, buttery sauce and spinach, Hippin Hops’ soulful twist uses Gouda, collards and smoked turkey. Served five to a tray with lemon wedges, they are delightful washed down with a Baby Momma Drama (a tropical IPA that packs a heady punch) or Trapaholic (a light, gently fruity sour). Our six East Coast oysters (from Massachusetts) and six West Coasters (Washington state) were perfectly shucked, clean tasting and delicious naked or with a bit of the mix-it-yourself hot sauce. (Horseradish, ketchup and hot sauce arrive in separate containers so you may doctor it up to your liking.)
If bivalves aren’t your thing, consider deviled eggs with Cajun shrimp or fried gator bites to get you going.
Credit: Mia Yakel
Credit: Mia Yakel
Along with oyster, shrimp, alligator and catfish po’boys, Hippin Hops, led by executive chef Derrica “Snow” Chaney, serves shrimp and grits, lobster rolls, and Belgian waffles with fried shrimp and fried lobster tails.
My guest, a Mississippi native, opted for the fish and grits — luscious cheese grits speared with two catfish fillets. He couldn’t finish the heaping bowl, though he sure did try. I was pretty smitten with my shrimp po’boy, with a la carte sides of crinkly Cajun fries (not too spicy) and creamy coleslaw made with plenty of purple cabbage. (I can’t wait to go back to try the catfish and oyster sammies.)
Credit: Wendell Brock
Credit: Wendell Brock
Though the Bostons had planned to serve cheesesteaks at the Hosea Williams location, which will feature a big, wraparound patio, they’ve changed course. Look for grilled and blackened proteins (shrimp, salmon, steak, vegan options) on skewers, plus rice and salads.
Like any restaurateur you talk to nowadays, Clarence said he’s been affected by food and labor shortages. Lest he run out of a choice item like catfish, he must plan carefully. As for the staff, every employee I encountered was friendly, mindful, quick on their heels.
Credit: Wendell Brock
Credit: Wendell Brock
Clarence, who with his wife still holds some funeral-industry investments as well as two restaurants in Charlotte, has a special affinity for the community. He interned at the Black-owned Meadows Mortuary around the corner and got his hair cut in the building that now houses his brewpub. (Back then, it was a barbershop.)
“That neighborhood has an emotional tie for me,” he said. When the Bostons saw the building was vacant, they knew it would be an ideal setting for their first brewery. After a single visit, I concur.
HIPPIN HOPS
Menu: Seafood and craft beer
Alcohol: Beer, beer-mosas, frozen beer-tails
What I ordered: Dozen oysters on the half shell, Oysters Collardfeller, shrimp po’boy, fish and grits, fries, slaw
Service options: Dine-in and takeout
Mask policy: Mandatory for staff and guests
Address, phone: 1308 Glenwood Ave. SE, Atlanta, 678-713-2739
Hours: 5-11 p.m. Wednesdays-Thursdays; 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Fridays; 12 p.m.-12 a.m. Saturdays; 12-10 p.m. Sundays
Website: hippinhopsbrewery.com
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