The sticky, crispy fish sauce wings already are daring, thanks to the fact that they put “fish sauce” right in the name, since that’s a guaranteed turnoff to some. But, that doesn’t mean the fermented flavor of the sauce dominates the dish. The funkiness is mellowed out with nearly equal doses of sweetness and savoriness. The crispy-fried exterior glistens like rock candy under the sweet glaze, and green onions and garlic help perfume the dish. These are good wings, in a city where people know the difference, and it’s a taste you’re not likely to find on many other menus.

The addictive flavor leads you quickly to discover the biggest problem with this appetizer: You only get four pieces. Be smart, and get at least two orders.

Anh’s Kitchen. 855 Peachtree St., Atlanta. 404-989-6886, anhskitchenatl.com.

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