This smoked bark is worth the wait, and the drive

You can get a brisket sandwich at Moonie’s Texas BBQ. Angela Hansberger for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Combined ShapeCaption
You can get a brisket sandwich at Moonie’s Texas BBQ. Angela Hansberger for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Dish of the Week: Brisket at Moonie’s Texas BBQ

As the foil was peeled back from a steaming, ebony-hued hunk of brisket, I knew waiting in the long line, amid the heady aroma of wood smoke, had been worth it.

The brisket at Moonie’s Texas BBQ looks more like a meteorite than meat. The dark, crusty outer layer is the epitome of perfectly smoked brisket. The pitmasters at Moonie’s, located in Flowery Branch, achieve the hefty bark with a simple rub of sea salt and cracked black pepper before smoking the meat in an oak-burning, Texas-made J&R Oyler smoker.

You can order the brisket by the pound, on a griddled bun or as slices of meat on a thick slab of Texas toast. Beneath the black crust are caramel-like, melty ribbons of fat, and a ring of pink, tender, juicy smoked meat. Moonie’s has a selection of house-made sauces, but this perfect brisket doesn’t need anything to elevate it.

You also can order pulled pork, turkey, chicken, ribs and sausage, along with a selection of sides, but don’t skip the brisket.

Moonie’s Texas BBQ. 5545 Atlanta Highway, Flowery Branch. 678-828-8366, mooniesbbq.com