The po’boys at Crawfish Shack Seafood are served with shredded lettuce, tomatoes and pickle slices, sandwiched in a halved section of Leidenheimer French bread. The use of Leidenheimer’s bread, from New Orleans, shows they’re serious about making a great sandwich.

The bread is tough to replicate, with a thin, pliable crust that is easy to bite through, but still crackly on the outside. The soft, absorbent crumb soaks up sauces, including Crawfish Shack’s tasty homemade remoulade, which tastes like it gets an extra bit of oomph from some smoked paprika.

Still, the main event is the fried crawfish. A little more flavorful than their still-tasty fried shrimp, the crawfish chunks are plump and juicy, with a well-balanced meat-to-breading ratio. That breading is salty and crumbly, providing excellent contrast to the tender crawfish.

Crawfish Shack Seafood, 4337 Buford Highway NE, Atlanta. 404-329-1610, crawfishshackseafood.com.

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