This Atlanta hamburger gives way to a melty treat

The chopped cheese at Dead End Drinks was inspired by a famed New York City bodega sandwich. Angela Hansberger for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

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The chopped cheese at Dead End Drinks was inspired by a famed New York City bodega sandwich. Angela Hansberger for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Dish of the Week: Chopped cheese at Dead End Drinks

The big changes when Ration & Dram rebranded as Dead End Drinks were the name and a bit of moody décor. But, co-owner Caitlin Crawford also replaced the beloved burger with something new and different, and the result is a standout for both construction and flavor.

The chopped cheese at Dead End was inspired by a famed New York City bodega sandwich. Sometimes called a “chop cheese” on sandwich boards, it’s a sort of Frankensteined version of cheesesteak-meets-burger.

Hamburger takes the place of thinly sliced steak in the sandwich. While griddled on a flat top, the onions and peppers soften as cheese is added to the ground beef and chopped with a spatula. This is where the cheesy meltage begins. The smothered meat is loaded onto a light, chewy hero roll, and then toasted for extra structural integrity. Sliced tomato, shredded lettuce and a slick of mayo add crisp freshness to the bits of beef, which have lots of deep brown, crusty edges.

It’s a sloppy architectural marvel that is fully loaded with flavor.

Dead End Drinks. 130 Arizona Ave. NE, Atlanta. 678-974-8380, rationanddram.com.