When Mac’s Chophouse first opened its doors two years ago, it faced the daunting question of whether Marietta residents would accept a new, upscale restaurant replacing the venerable Shillings on the Square.
The answer was a resounding yes, and now the steakhouse has a new sister eatery, Mac’s Raw Bar and Market.
Mac’s Raw Bar brings an appealing vivacity and sophistication to bustling Marietta Square. Its comfortable, modern design is coastal, but not kitschy. The long, narrow space, with an oyster-shucking station at its center, hums with positive energy, much of it due to the service. The servers and bartenders at Mac’s Raw Bar work quickly, are fluent in the menu and make confident recommendations when asked.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
The convivial atmosphere, good service and variety of fresh oysters are enough to make Mac’s Raw Bar an excellent neighborhood restaurant. It could develop into something even better with time, especially with a good cocktail list (the liquor license is in the works) and a few tweaks in the kitchen.
When it comes to the food, the restaurant still feels a bit unfinished. It’s difficult to find fault with the beautiful raw oysters — when you can get them. On a Wednesday night, there were so few oysters available that our server said he couldn’t recommend any.
Instead of oysters, we ordered the crab cocktail, a disappointing bowl of lump crab meat that had little of the flavor or sweetness you’d expect. Selling the crab cocktail at market price, which was $21 in our case, implies that it’s fresh, but our crab certainly did not taste that way.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
While crab might not be a strong suit at Mac’s, the kitchen does wonderful things with shrimp. The shrimp cocktail, only a few dollars cheaper than the crab version, was much more satisfying. Those same plump, tender shrimp appeared on the Cobb salad, which also checked all the right boxes. On the broiled seafood platter, the generously seasoned shrimp showed off a different preparation: The edges were crispy from the high heat, without losing their tender, juicy bite.
That seafood platter was a showcase for the unevenness of the kitchen, too. The broiled lobster at its center was fabulous, perfectly cooked with a light, skillful touch under the broiler. The scallops might have been even better. However, the seasonal fish included on the platter, halibut, was overcooked and dry, and the dirty rice and green beans were prepared well, but seemed to be an afterthought.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Other items that should have been slam-dunks also were disappointing. The hush puppies had little texture and tasted of baking powder both times we tried them. Old Bay-seasoned chips made in-house looked incredible — each chip as thin and transparent as a dragonfly wing — but they lacked crispness, as if they had been sitting for a while.
As you would expect at the sister restaurant of a steakhouse, the steak frites were terrific, and the french fries were much better than the chips.
Dessert is another part of the menu that feels like an afterthought. Chocolate mousse pie and key lime pie both were served on different nights with partially melted whipped cream, another indication that our order might have been sitting a while before it was brought to us. The key lime pie, at least, had a beautiful, clear citrus flavor and a wonderfully crumbly crust. The chocolate mousse lacked any depth or texture.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Although the food is uneven, the menu’s bright spots show great potential. Mac’s Raw Bar is an excellent place to grab oysters and a few interesting glasses of wine, and the short sake list is a sophisticated touch that provides another fun beverage option while the restaurant is stuck in liquor license limbo.
With Mac’s Chophouse perpetually packed next door, its sibling provides an option for Marietta Square visitors who are seeking a casual, but still stylish, spot for dinner or drinks.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
MAC’S RAW BAR & MARKET
Food: American seafood
Service: polished, professional and confident
Best dishes: jumbo shrimp cocktail, raw oysters, broiled seafood platter, steak frites
Vegetarian selections: only hushpuppies and one salad
Alcohol: relatively large and interesting wine list, local beers, small sake collection, but no liquor or cocktails yet
Price range: $$$
Credit cards: all major cards accepted
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays
Children: welcome, but no kids menu
Parking: street parking on Marietta Square, public pay lots available nearby
MARTA station: none
Reservations: yes
Wheelchair access: yes
Noise level: quieter than Mac’s Chophouse, but still loud on busy nights
Takeout: yes
Address, phone: 23 N. Park Square, Marietta. 770-419-7783
Website: macsrawbar.com
Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $100; $$$$ means $100 or less; $$$ means $75 or less; $$ means $50 or less; $ means $25 or less. The price code represents a typical full-course meal for one, excluding drinks.
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