REVIEW: Bomb Biscuits on the rise in Inman Park

Among the offerings at Bomb Biscuits are (from left) a vegan Florentine biscuit, a Kentucky hot brown biscuit and the Atomic biscuit. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

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Among the offerings at Bomb Biscuits are (from left) a vegan Florentine biscuit, a Kentucky hot brown biscuit and the Atomic biscuit. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Credit: Chris Hunt

Flaky and buttery, high as the sky, a golden-brown crust with a soft interior, ever so tangy, and with a balancing pinch of salt — if your mind conjures such thoughts when you picture the best buttermilk biscuit you ever ate, and you’ve yet to try one from Bomb Biscuits, you’re due for a visit to this new food stall at Irwin Street Market.

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Customers can order at the counter of Bomb Biscuits, a new food stall at Irwin Street Market. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Customers can order at the counter of Bomb Biscuits, a new food stall at Irwin Street Market. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

caption arrowCaption
Customers can order at the counter of Bomb Biscuits, a new food stall at Irwin Street Market. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Credit: Chris Hunt

Baker and food writer Erika Council informally joined the dining scene in 2016, as the host of Sunday supper parties. A year later, that morphed into pop-ups at B’s Cracklin’ Barbecue, with her biscuits starring next to pitmaster Bryan Furman’s smoked meats. By 2018, Bomb Biscuits was a bona fide company. When the pandemic hit, Council, formerly a software engineer, added biscuit delivery to her pop-up model. This past September, her roving eatery found a home in Inman Park.

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Among the varieties available at Bomb Biscuits are (from left) the black pepper bacon cheese biscuit, the Plain Jane biscuit and the chocolate chip buttermilk biscuit. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Among the varieties available at Bomb Biscuits are (from left) the black pepper bacon cheese biscuit, the Plain Jane biscuit and the chocolate chip buttermilk biscuit. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

caption arrowCaption
Among the varieties available at Bomb Biscuits are (from left) the black pepper bacon cheese biscuit, the Plain Jane biscuit and the chocolate chip buttermilk biscuit. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Credit: Chris Hunt

Council learned to make biscuits years ago while working at her grandmother’s restaurant, Mama Dip’s Country Kitchen, in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. It seems almost disrespectful to refer to Bomb Biscuits’ basic offering by its menu name: Plain Jane. These are no ordinary biscuits. Hot and fresh out of the oven, these rounds are light, fluffy and wholly satisfying on their own. And, as the backbone for a breakfast sandwich, they are the bomb.

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Bomb Biscuits has a sausage egg and cheese biscuit that is gluten-free, as well as the traditional ham biscuit. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Bomb Biscuits has a sausage egg and cheese biscuit that is gluten-free, as well as the traditional ham biscuit. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

caption arrowCaption
Bomb Biscuits has a sausage egg and cheese biscuit that is gluten-free, as well as the traditional ham biscuit. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Credit: Chris Hunt

The SEC sandwich (maple sausage, egg and American cheese — cheekily referred to as “the people’s cheese”) is undefeated in my book, but the Classic (bacon, egg and cheese) takes a close second — except when I want a thick, juicy cutlet of fried chicken with a few bread and butter pickles (the Glori-Fried, or its sweet-savory glazed cousin, the Hot Honey). But, glory be, that Carolina’s Finest open-faced biscuit, topped with fried chicken, bacon and smothered in sausage gravy, is a heck of a post-church meal. In fact, as the menu warns, it may induce a midday nap.

A flavored biscuit is a fine foundation for a handheld, too. The Atomic, a cheddar jalapeno biscuit filled with spicy sausage and a scrambled egg flecked with red pepper, is such a stellar flavor combination that this popular special now has a permanent place on the menu — and the kitchen even has developed a vegan variation.

Indeed, this is a place where vegans and gluten-free eaters will feel included in the biscuit love. Council may be able to make traditional buttermilk biscuits in her sleep, but developing a recipe for a gluten-free product took some doing. The combination of rice and oat flours makes for a slightly earthier taste and denser baked product, but the gluten-free version still comes with a flaky texture and nice height.

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Bomb's Glori-Fried chicken biscuit features a thick, juicy cutlet of fried chicken with a few bread and butter pickles. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Bomb's Glori-Fried chicken biscuit features a thick, juicy cutlet of fried chicken with a few bread and butter pickles. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

caption arrowCaption
Bomb's Glori-Fried chicken biscuit features a thick, juicy cutlet of fried chicken with a few bread and butter pickles. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Credit: Chris Hunt

Even after you’ve made a tasting party out of all eight of the menu’s biscuit sandwich staples (and built a few of your own creations), the constant creativity will keep you coming back to check out the weekly specials, like sweet potato biscuits or the (I can’t believe it’s vegan) Florentine biscuit sandwich, featuring plant-based versions of chicken, Monterey Jack cheese and scrambled eggs.

I could gush on about all the savory goodies, but that would leave out the sweet stuff. A chocolate chip biscuit is a fine pairing with a cup of coffee. So are fluffy, pull-apart cinnamon buns slicked with a cream cheese frosting that accents the pastry, rather than taking center stage. I’m of a mind to hit up the place again this week, considering s’mores are the featured bun. And, next week — or whenever they finish perfecting their cheesecake bun number.

“All the desserts I love will end up as cinnamon rolls at some point,” Council told me when we spoke on the phone.

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A few counter stools offer a front row seat to the biscuit baking and sandwich assembly. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

A few counter stools offer a front row seat to the biscuit baking and sandwich assembly. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

caption arrowCaption
A few counter stools offer a front row seat to the biscuit baking and sandwich assembly. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Credit: Chris Hunt

It’s mesmerizing to watch Council and her crew work in that cramped kitchen, with barely enough space to move a rack filled with trays of biscuits and buns. A few counter stools offer a front row seat to the biscuit baking and sandwich assembly that finishes with each warm treat carefully wrapped and sealed with a sticker.

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Erika Council is baker-owner of Bomb Biscuits on Irwin Street. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Erika Council is baker-owner of Bomb Biscuits on Irwin Street. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

caption arrowCaption
Erika Council is baker-owner of Bomb Biscuits on Irwin Street. Chris Hunt for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Chris Hunt

Credit: Chris Hunt

Right now, Council and her crew are transforming bags of King Arthur flour into more than 1,000 biscuits a week. Imagine what the number would be if Bomb Biscuits were open more than four or five hours a day, four days a week.

“It will be at some point,” said Council, who hopes to find a larger space that would support increased production and hours of operation. Until then, Thursdays through Sundays are when you should get your buns to Bomb Biscuits.

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BOMB BISCUITS

Food: biscuits, biscuit sandwiches and cinnamon rolls

Service: speedy, with a smile

Setting: food stall inside Irwin Street Market

Best dishes: black pepper bacon biscuit, the SEC sandwich, the Classic sandwich, the Glori-Fried sandwich, the Atomic sandwich

Vegetarian selections: always a vegan biscuit and biscuit sandwich option

Alcohol: no

Price range: $

COVID-19 safety: masks required inside when ordering, and when not eating or drinking

Credit cards: all major credit cards accepted

Hours: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Thursdays-Fridays, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays

Children: yes

Parking: free parking in lot and on street

MARTA station: Inman Park/Reynoldstown

Reservations: no

Wheelchair access: yes

Noise level: low

Outdoor dining: picnic tables

Takeout: yes — also Thursday and/or Friday delivery for pre-orders to most neighborhoods inside the Perimeter

Address, phone: 660 Irwin St. NE, Atlanta; 678-705-7945

Website: bombbiscuitatl.com

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