The brisket-like beef inside the tacos de birria at family-run Frida’s Taqueria in Lilburn is consistently fall-apart tender, the result of a stew of beef and chile peppers being cooked slowly over flames.
For these tacos, tender hunks of meat are distributed evenly inside three handmade corn tortillas and dipped into stew. Onions, cilantro and cheese are added, and the tacos are fried crisp, with a browned cheese exterior.
The move here is to spritz the taco with lime and plunge it into the broth for a rich and robustly flavored cheesy crunch. The chile-laden broth has the delicate flavor of guajillo and adobo. It’s sweet, spicy and savory, all at the same time.
As if this experience weren’t enough, the dish comes with three house-made sauces, for added dipping pleasure. The moderately spiced guajillo chile sauce lends smoky heat, the habanero absolutely bursts with vegetal, pungent heat, and an avocado crema cools everything down. A tip: double-dip the broth and a sauce.
Frida’s Taqueria. 5514 Lawrenceville Highway, Lilburn. 470-273-5349, fridastacos.com
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