Beloved classic stars on menu at this Duluth restaurant

The restaurant Pad Thai, named for the noodle dish, is tucked away in a Gwinnett shopping strip and is easy to miss. But it’s worth seeking out, and the star of the extensive menu there is snow crab fried rice.

Much like the restaurant’s namesake dish, crab fried rice is a beloved Thai classic. It toes the mark of such classics — balancing salty, spicy, sour and sweet — and this version offers an intensely aromatic mound combining the sweetness of snow crab with fried rice.

The jasmine rice has a mouthwatering blend of toasty, umami notes of sesame oil, briny soy sauce and tangy fish sauce, which subtly coats the grains. Fluffy scrambled egg envelopes the deeply flavored rice. The fresh, plump chunks of crab meat are luxuriously succulent, and the light seasoning doesn’t take away from its delicate flavor. Lime adds a vibrant citrus splash, and a garnish of cucumber provides a textural element, along with scallions.