Try this flavorful triple-decker on rye from a metro Atlanta cafe

You could eat it with your hands, but this smoked salmon tartine is so thoughtfully put together that it deserves silverware.

It’s a lovely complement to the fresh pastries filling the glass cases of the longtime cafe and bakery in Marietta, now run by chef Jonathan St. Hilaire and business partner Melissa Ward. They also have a Roswell location.

The dish’s base is rustic, house-made rye bread, briefly toasted to a craggy crisp, with a chewy middle. On top of that is a luscious spread of cream cheese, which holds fluffy scrambled eggs with a hint of truffle and ribbons of smoked salmon. All that richness is embellished with a colorful dressed salad of pickled red onion, briny capers, tomato, cucumber sections, peppery arugula and wispy sprouts.