Breakfast is back, and so is the line at this longtime Atlanta restaurant

Goodie Mob’s song “Soul Food” is a reminiscence of what fueled the Atlanta hip-hop group in the mid-1990s, when the album of the same name was released.

In describing their search for a place to eat on a day “when momma ain’t cookin’,” the group mentioned that there was a line at the Beautiful. That yearning for breakfast at the Beautiful Restaurant returned for many in 2020, when the cafeteria-style South Atlanta institution, open since 1979, stopped serving the morning meal.

Breakfast is back there now, though it’s only served on Saturdays. So, once again, you can stand in a line at the Beautiful. Then you can sit down to a plate of fluffy, whole-wheat pancakes. Soft in the middle, but perfectly golden brown with crisp edges, they are reminiscent of when your mother fed you breakfast, and that’s exactly what they are going for here. Pair those pancakes with a side of feathery, moist, cheesy eggs.