You might have to play Rock, Paper, Scissors for the last bite of this dish

Disco fries — gravy and cheese over crisp potatoes — are a late-night diner classic, part of the pantheon of great American food. There is much deliberation about which style of fry is superior. Some purists might prefer the steak fry, or the crinkle, but tots are where it’s at, and you’ll find a top-notch version served at Roshambo.

The new Peachtree Battle diner not only opts for tots, but the kitchen also adds a sublime Mornay sauce, with a Southern-style base of pimento cheese. The fluffy, golden brown nuggets of potato have a chipped crust that increases the surface area of crispiness, and they are covered in the creamy, cheesy, decadent sauce. Sprinkled about are bits of bacon and slivers of scallion. All the nooks and crannies allow abundant crunch and carry cheesy goodness to your mouth, where you will find the tot interior to be pillowy.

If you’re sharing, you might have to play Rock, Paper, Scissors for the very last tot. There’s a score sheet at your table, to keep track in case it’s a tie.