A superfood is disguised as a vivid dessert at this Decatur restaurant

You easily could pass right over beet terrine with mixed greens on a restaurant menu. Beet salad with goat cheese is so common these days. But, when you order the beet terrine at Kindred in DeKalb County’s Oak Grove neighborhood, what you get is an extraordinary, dessert-looking dish.

The slice of beet terrine on my plate jiggled my memories of sweet gelatin desserts that never quite measured up to their enchanting appearance, with fruit suspended in a cold, wobbly form. This dish shows off the earthy sweetness of beets and the tang of goat cheese, along with bright leafy greens and nutty crunch.

The scene-stealer is achieved by roasting beets and dressing the pieces in sweet and sour agrodolce. Slices of red and golden beets are layered with a mixture of whipped goat and feta cheese to form a superfood “cake.” The chilled, layered terrine is nestled on spring mix that has been dressed with white balsamic and dotted with spiced pecans. It’s extra showy, but the flavors manage to pull the whole thing off.