On a sunny, breezy day last spring, I was out for a lengthy hike on the tiny island of Sark. For about four hours I had been exploring the glorious scenery of this part of the Channel Islands, which sit in the English Channel between England and France.

But my feet were ready for a rest, and I was getting hungry. I had had a substantial breakfast at my bed-and-breakfast on Guernsey, less than an hour away by ferry, so I just wanted something light.

Along the main gravel road, I stopped for refreshments at Sue’s Tea Garden, a large expanse of deep green lawn, with tables scattered around a well-manicured collection of trees, plants and flowers.

I sat on a bench at a rectangular wooden table, studied the menu and then requested a piece of ginger cake, a cheese and herb scone and a pot of Earl Grey tea. The scone came with a little pad of butter in the shape of a mouse, complete with long, thin tail. The teapot was snug in its cozy, and the ginger cake rested alone on a plate with a sprinkling of powdered sugar.

Although I enjoyed everything, the memory of the ginger cake has stayed with me. It was moist without being soggy, the spices were mild but distinctive, and I particularly liked the small pieces of ginger throughout.

While I paid my bill, I chatted with the owner, Sue Guille, who makes everything on the menu, about her garden. I fleetingly thought to ask for the recipes but left without having done so.

I’ve been thinking about the ginger cake ever since. Shortly after I got home, I wrote a card to Guille, requesting the recipes. I never heard back. I don’t know whether she didn’t get my correspondence, didn’t want to share, or she answered and her response went astray.

So I have spent the past several months looking at my cookbooks, searching the Web and trying recipes that might duplicate what I remember.

First I tried a spice cake from Emeril Lagasse that I found on the Web. It was somewhat dry, the texture was too stiff, and it was way too light in color. Probably not enough molasses.

Then I turned to my reliable “Silver Palate Cookbook” by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins (Workman Publishing, $9.95). The gingerbread did not disappoint and I’ve made it several times since, but it was not a perfect match.

Late last year, “Gingerbread: Timeless Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Desserts, Ice Cream and Candy” by Jennifer Lindner McGlinn arrived at the AJC. (The paper often gets new cookbooks from publishers.) “Hmmm,” I thought. “Perhaps I’ll find what I’m looking for in here.”

The gingerbread I baked had pleasantly pronounced spices (including allspice and cloves) and a lovely, deep aroma, but it was too dark in color and had a dense crumb. It, too, wasn’t just right.

Recently I tried a recipe off the Web from King Arthur Flour. It calls for a cup of buttermilk, an ingredient missing from the other recipes. I don’t know whether that’s what made the difference, but to my mind, this one came the closest.

I’ve thought about sending Guille another note, but even without her input, any of these three will do just fine when I want a flavorful cake that reminds me of a cool May day on a windswept island.

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Recipes

Most recipes say to serve gingerbread warm, but I think that room temperature is just fine. Tightly wrapped, gingerbread will stay fresh for several days ... if it’s around that long.

I like to vary the shape, so sometimes I make muffins instead of a cake. All can be topped with confectioners’ sugar, whipped cream or anything else you’d like. But I don’t think they need any adornment.

You can find small pieces of crystallized ginger at Harry’s Farmers Market or Whole Foods. I like the Reed’s brand that comes in a 1-pound resealable pouch.

Betty Gordon, bgordon@ajc.com

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King Arthur Flour’s Gingerbread

Hands on: 20 minutes Total time: 55 minutes Serves: 12 to 16

This was the winner, the closest to what I could remember of the taste of the ginger cake I had on Sark. Instead of a square cake, try baking the batter as 12 large muffins.

You can use 3 tablespoons of fresh grated ginger instead of crystallized ginger. Add the ginger to the molasses before adding to the flour mixture.

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

11/2 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter or margarine, melted

3/4 cup molasses

1/4 cup water

1 large egg

1 cup buttermilk

1/2 cup crystallized ginger, diced (optional)

Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Grease and flour a 9-inch square baking dish. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking soda, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg.

Melt the butter or margarine in the microwave in a heatproof measuring cup. Add the molasses to the butter. Pour into the dry ingredients, mixing to moisten.

Add the water, stirring until everything is moistened. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and buttermilk. Stir into the batter until it’s evenly combined. Stir in the crystallized ginger.

Pour batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake just begins to pull away from the edge of the pan. (Make sure the center is baked; it should not wiggle.) Or insert a toothpick in the center and when it comes out clean, the cake is done. Be careful not to overbake.

Remove from the oven and cool on a rack for 15 minutes before slicing.

Adapted from a recipe from www.kingarthurflour.com Per serving (based on 12): 254 calories (percent of calories from fat, 30), 3 grams protein, 42 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 9 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 39 milligrams cholesterol, 234 milligrams sodium.

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Gingerbread

Hands on: 15 minutes Total time: 55 minutes Serves: 12

This gingerbread comes together quickly if you’re looking for a last-minute dessert. Don’t worry if the batter seems too thick after you’ve added the molasses. The hot water will thin it and make it easier to mix.

12/3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

11/4 teaspoons baking soda

11/2 teaspoons ground ginger

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 egg, lightly beaten

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup molasses

1/2 cup boiling water

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup crystallized ginger, diced (optional)

Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9-inch square baking pan.

Sift flour, baking soda, ground ginger, cinnamon and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the egg, sugar and molasses. Mix well.

Pour boiling water and oil over the mixture. Add the crystallized ginger. Stir thoroughly until smooth.

Pour batter into the prepared pan. Set on the middle rack and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the top springs back when touched and the edges have pulled away slightly from the sides of the pan.

Adapted from “The Silver Palate Cookbook” by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins (Workman Publishing, $9.95)

Per serving: 243 calories (percent of calories from fat, 35), 2 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 10 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 18 milligrams cholesterol, 280 milligrams sodium.

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Eliza Leslie’s Lafayette Gingerbread

Hands on: 25 minutes Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes Serves: 12 to 16

Cookbook author Jennifer Lindner McGlinn says a version of this cake dates to 1828 and was included in Eliza Leslie’s “Seventy-Five Recipes for Pastry, Cakes and Sweetmeats.” It is possibly named for the Marquis de Lafayette, McGlinn says.

I made this in a well-greased and floured, fluted bundt pan; McGlinn calls for a springform pan. Sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar, it’s elegant enough for a dinner party.

21/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon ground ginger

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter or margarine, at room temperature

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

1 cup molasses

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 cup hot water

1/2 cup crystallized ginger, diced (optional)

Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon

Confectioners’ sugar

Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9-by-3-inch springform pan.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, allspice and cloves.

Place the butter or margarine in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and beat on medium-high speed until smooth. (A good-quality hand mixer works fine, too.) Add the brown sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Pour in molasses and beat until smooth.

Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat well, stopping at least once to scrape the sides of the bowl. In a small bowl, dissolve the baking soda in the hot water.

Reduce the mixing speed to medium-low and alternately incorporate the flour mixture and the baking soda mixture, beginning and ending with the flour mixture. Stop once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the crystallized ginger, lemon juice and zest and beat until just incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 45 minutes or until the cake is a dark chestnut brown color, the top is cracked and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Set the gingerbread on a wire rack to cool in the pan for about 10 minutes before turning out to cool for about 30 minutes more.

Serve warm or at room temperature. Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.

Adapted from “Gingerbread: Timeless Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Desserts, Ice Cream, and Candy” by Jennifer Lindner McGlinn (Chronicle Books, $19.95)

Per serving (based on 12): 311 calories (percent of calories from fat, 25), 4 grams protein, 55 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 9 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 56 milligrams cholesterol, 331 milligrams sodium.