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There is any number of ways to take the measure of a winery's performance.
Few, however, have the ability to track performance over time and against a multitude of competitors. For the 2015 Wine Talk wineries of the year, I decided to scrutinize which were up to the Challenges. Those would be the Winemaker Challenge, Critics Challenge and Sommelier Challenge, three distinctly different international wine competitions that draw upon the expertise of winemakers, wine critics and sommeliers for their evaluations.
All three are staged in San Diego under the direction of yours truly, making this method all the more appropriate for the Wine Talk honors because I have the opportunity to sample most of the winning wines.
A winery of the year isn't necessarily the best winery in its geographical region, as my Old World Winery of the Year demonstrates. Bolla caught my eye in 2015 because of how far it has come in a few short years. This winery from the Vento region of northern Italy has emerged from decades of relatively unimpressive wines to become a player on the big stage.
Bolla was represented in all three Challenges and racked up 13 medals, including one platinum and five gold. Most impressive were its 2009 Amarone, 2011 Valpolicella Ripasso and 2013 Soave. This is a stunning result for a winery that once specialized in drinkable everyday wines that seldom inspired.
My Southern Hemisphere Winery of the Year is New Zealand's Giesen Winery from the Marlborough region. Giesen specializes in sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, but also makes a delicious riesling and pinot gris. Giesen racked up 26 medals over the three Challenges, with its most impressive showing in the Winemaker Challenge, where it won 11 medals overall, including two platinum and four gold.
The U.S. and North American Winery of the Year is the prolific V. Sattui Winery from the Napa Valley. V. Sattui bagged an astounding 65 medals over the three Challenges, including 27 at the Winemaker Challenge. It's most impressive performance, however, was no doubt the Critics Challenge, where V. Sattui took five platinum medals and 10 gold on the way to 19 medals won overall.
Complete results of the three 2015 Challenges can be found at www.winemakerchallenge.com, www.criticschallenge.com, and www.sommelierchallenge.com.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Morgan 2014 Cotes du Crow, Monterey ($18) -- One of the great unsolved mysteries of California wine is the less than significant impact of Rhone-style blends. These would be red wines -- generally, though whites do exist -- that are spicy, plump and fleshy, showing loads of red-fruit character (owing to the presence of grenache in the blend) and all at an affordable everyday price. One of the finest of this genre is Morgan's Cotes du Crow. It's a pure delight and should do much to increase the popularity of this style. I'm still waiting. In the meantime, how 'bout another glass! Rating: 91.
Tasting Notes
Dutton-Goldfield 2013 Syrah, Cherry Ridge Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($50) -- Dutton-Goldfield's 2013 Cherry Ridge Vineyard Syrah is a textbook example of how to handle this important French grape variety and kickstart its popularity. Winemaker Dan Goldfield has crafted a smoky, meaty syrah that could stand up to Guigal or Chapoutier in anyone's blind tasting. It shows dark notes of blackberry and black currant, with an overlay of smoke and spice, and just a hint of the roasted game aroma that makes the wines of the northern Rhone so attractive. Rating: 96.
Black Kite 2013 Pinot Noir, Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands ($55) -- The Santa Lucia Highlands arrived late to the pinot noir party, but better late than never. These days this region at the northern tip of Monterey County is on a par with the more hallowed Russian River Valley and not as prone to vintage variation. Black Kite's effort from the Soberanes Vineyard in the 2013 vintage is impressive, showing complex layers of black cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit, with a subtle spice note in the background and firm but nicely integrated grape tannins. Give this wine another three to five years to show its best. Rating: 95.
Gallo 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 'Signature Series,' Napa Valley ($50) -- This Gina Gallo Signature Cabernet Sauvignon shows off the exceptional balance between ripeness and structure that characterized this very good vintage. If offers deep notes of cassis and blackberry, with a classic whiff of cedar and graphite that is prized but more common in Bordeaux than the Napa Valley. The 2013 has impression dimension, with exceptional weight and depth, and a long, lingering finish. It probably won't show it's best for another 7 to 10 years. Rating: 95.
Patz & Hall 2013 Pinot Noir, Burnside Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($75) -- Once again winemaker James Hall's deft touch with Pinot Noir is reflected in his handling of the 2013 vintage from the Russian River Valley's Burnside Vineyard. This one shows uber ripe fruit, with layers of succulent blackberry, plum and raspberry. Richly textured yet elegantly balanced, this fleshy pinot is supple enough to drink now but exhibits the requisite grip to age nicely over the next decade. It shows a pleasing note of forest floor and cola, with a persistence through the finish that is lingering and memorable. Rating: 95.
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