The seventh annual Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition over the weekend in San Diego produced its usual eclectic mix of stunning winners in all price ranges.
Winemaker Challenge is a unique wine competition that uses prominent winemakers exclusively to evaluate the entries. The lineup included such outstanding winemakers as Ed Sbragia, the only winemaker ever to make two different wines that went on to be named Wine Spectator Wine of the Year, and Gary Eberle, frequently called the "Godfather" of Paso Robles wine.
Susan Lueker of Simi, Maureen Martin of Clos du Bois and Sara Fowler of Peju also were in the star-studded lineup.
The Winemaker Challenge is organized by yours truly, which gives me the opportunity to taste many of the wines the winemakers have given great marks. I typically taste about half of the platinum award-winners (medals awarded are silver, gold and platinum) during the competition and review them shortly thereafter.
This week's Wine Talk is dedicated to the highlights from my Winemaker Challenge platinum tastings, including a number of highly rated "value" wines. I offer up a mixed case of platinum winners at prices ranging from $13 to $75. Visit www.winemakerchallenge.com for complete results.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Firesteed 2014 Pinot Gris, Oregon ($13) -- Pinot Gris is hands down Oregon's finest white-wine grape variety and that shows in this exquisitely balanced Pinot Gris from Firesteed. With a medium body and excellent flavor intensity, it's a good match for grilled fish or creamy pasta dishes. This vintage exhibits aromas of pear and peach, with a subtle hint of citrus. Rating: 94.
La Gioiosa Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Valdobbiadene, Italy ($19) -- Not all Prosecco was created equally. The Valdobbiadene district elevates Prosecco in a number of ways, not the least of which is refinement. The La Gioiosa is an excellent example. This fine Prosecco is fresh and delicate, with precise aromas of peach and pear, exceptional balance and a crisp, clean finish. Rating: 94.
Tangent 2014 Albarino, Paragon Vineyard, Edna Valley ($17) -- Tangent winemaker Christian Roguenant was perhaps the first winemaker in the U.S. to go all-in on Albarino, a white grape that has thrived for decades along the west coast of Spain and Portugal. The cool coastal conditions of the Paragon Vineyard near San Luis Obispo, California, seemed ideal to Roguenant, and he also did his homework with trips to the Rias Baixas region of Spain, where Albarino is the money grape. The 2014 from Tangent is a beautiful wine that shows aromas of lime and pear, with refreshing acidity and exceptional length on the palate. Rating: 94.
Matchbook 2012 Tempranillo, Dunnigan Hills ($15) -- Tempranillo is a grape that should thrive in California given its Mediterranean climate, with warm days and cool nights that mirror to some extent the conditions in Spain's Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions, where Tempranillo is the money grape. So far, though, California vintners have been reluctant to plant this grape. Matchbook's 2012 Tempranillo should be a wakeup call however, for it demonstrates the potential of the grape in the right location. The Matchbook is firmly structured but with excellent weight and density. It should age very well and show off its delicious black cherry fruit at approaches maturity in another five to ten years. Rating: 93.
Line 39 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, ($10) -- If you're looking for a cheap thrill, this $10 Cabernet from Line 39 should do the job. It hits all the markers with notes of black cherry and red currant, a touch of spice and a floral nose. At this price you could make it your everyday house wine and buy it by the case. Rating: 90.
Tasting Notes
Gloria Ferrer 2004 Carneros Cuvee Brut, Carneros ($75) -- Carneros is one of but a handful of domestic sparkling wines made in the manner of a tetes de cuvee Champagne from France. That means extended aging on the lees, hand-selected grapes from the finest vineyard blocks, and the strictest selection from the base wines of each vintage. The 2004 Carneros Cuvee is a worthy rival of top-notch Champagne and without a doubt one of the finest sparkling wines made anywhere outside of the Champagne district. This is a stylish bubbly that is made to dazzle, and it does. Rating: 96.
Wolffer Estate 2013 Diosa, Late Harvest, Long Island, New York ($37) -- German-born winemaker Roman Roth excels at this style. Diosa is an ice wine that's mostly Chardonnay (76 percent) with splashes of Pinot Gris, Vignoles and Gewurztraminer. Rich and luscious, it shows inviting aromas of peach and apricot, with notes of baking spice and a touch of vanilla. Rating: 96.
Banfi 2013 Fonte Alla Selva, Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy ($24) - The Tuscan powerhouse Banfi is reaping huge dividends with its ongoing expansion into the Chianti region. Banfi is best known for its fine Brunello and Rosso wines from the Montalcino district, but its Chianti wines are making plenty of noise, too. The 2013 Fonte Alla Selva is a beautifully structured Chianti DOCG with the potential to to age. The nose shows notes of black cherry, earth and spice, and on the palate the wine is firm and well proportioned. The finish is persistent and lingering, the telltale mark of a fine wine. This Chianti is primarily Sangiovese, with a splash of Canaiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Rating: 95.
Gloria Ferrer 2007 Royal Cuvee Brut, Carneros ($37) -- The most underrated sparkling wine in the United States, hands down, is the remarkable Royal Cuvee from Gloria Ferrer. The 2007 vintage is yet another in a long line of excellent vintages that stretches back more than a decade. It exhibits aromas of stone fruit, crunchy green apple and toasty brioche, with fine bubbles that last through an exceptionally long finish. This cuvee leans heavily upon the Pinot Noir grape at more than 60 percent, with the balance Chardonnay. Rating: 95.
J. Lohr 2012 Cuvee Pom, Paso Robles ($50) -- Pom is Lohr's tribute to the wines of Pomerol, the Right Bank district of Bordeaux that shines the light on Merlot. The 2012 Pom is 62 percent Merlot, with the balance of the blend Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Soft and fleshy, the 2012 Pom exhibits considerable heft with notes of plum, red currant and blueberry. On the palate this wine is filling and supple, with a long toasty finish that shows a hint of oak vanillin. Rating: 95.
ZD Wines 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($65) -- ZD made its reputation in the 1980s producing world class Chardonnay. It still does, thank you, but in recent vintages the stars have realigned and now Cabernet Sauvignon may well be the winery's most important grape. The 2013 Cabernet is a stunning wine that will rival any Napa Cab you are likely to find from this very good vintage. Well proportioned, with outstanding weight and depth, yet beautifully balanced, it shows notes of cassis and blackberry, excellent balance and a subtle note of oak spice. Rating: 95.
Les Chartrons 2014 Bordeaux AOC, France ($30) -- Good value Bordeaux is not an oxymoron, but finding one does involve some mental gymnastics. The first order of business is accepting that the classified growths don't own the patent on quality in this important wine region. Les Chartrons bears the simple Bordeaux AOC appellation, but what's in the bottle speaks of a higher calling. This vintage is well balanced and beautifully structured, with firm tannins masking -- for the trime being -- lovely aromas of cassis and blackberry. At this price, a real find. Rating: 92.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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