We may take our cue for pairing wine with this dish from the folk who live in the Pacific Northwest, from Oregon on up through British Columbia and into Alaska. They know salmon. What’s often in glass with salmon preparations is pinot noir, sometimes Oregon pinot but not by rule, for the world over makes this medium-bodied, tangy, aromatic, moderately tannic red — all qualities that match well with an oil-rich, fleshy, full-flavored fish. Recommendations here come from California, but pinot noir of high quality comes from Burgundy, of course, but also Germany, Alsace, northern Italy and New Zealand.
The food
Heat broiler to high; place rack 6 inches from heat. Season 2 salmon fillets with salt. Broil on a foil-lined broiler pan until almost done, about 8 minutes. Set aside. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix 1 cup pitted black olives, chopped; 1/4 cup fresh basil, minced; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1 teaspoon each honey and orange juice; and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add 1 cup cooked orzo pasta; toss to coat. Transfer to a platter. Break salmon into large chunks; place over orzo along with the segments from 1 orange. Sprinkle toasted sesame seeds over all. Makes: 6 servings
Recipe by Renee Enna
The wines
2012 J. Lohr Pinot Noir, Fog’s Reach Vineyard, Arroyo Seco: A nice example of how fruit and wood can marry well in pinot noir; bright, lifted red fruit flavors and aromas with persistent wood notes through to the lengthy finish. $26-$30
Hail cabbage, that less-fashionable kale cousin
Hail cabbage, that less-fashionable kale cousin
2013 Ca’ Momi Pinot Noir, Napa Valley: This was pitted blind against three $90-$100 pinot noirs from Sonoma County at a tasting attended by 40 University of Chicago alumni; half preferred it to the much more expensive wines. Ha. $25
2011 Talley Vineyards Pinot Noir, Arroyo Grande Valley: Parker: 90; Tanzer: 92; Galloni: 93; enough said. But here’s the Trib’s 25 cents: This is a steal for spiced red fruit that glides through and never ends. $35-$40
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