What it is: Bellaire Brown from Short’s Brewing Co. is a fairly faithful-to-style brown ale, though on the 2016 beer landscape that is, unfortunately, not a compliment. With America’s long-running obsession with big-flavored craft beer (India pale ales, imperial stouts, sour ales), there isn’t a lot of room in the conversation for an un-showy beer like brown ale. That’s our loss, because when done well, it’s a wonderful style — approachable but deeply satisfying. With the recent popularity of classic and lower-alcohol beer in craft circles — such as Pilsners — the prediction here is that brown ale will eventually enjoy a renaissance. When it does, Bellaire should be at the top of your list. It’s new to Chicago, after Elk Rapids, Mich.-based Short’s Brewing decided in January to end a longtime policy to sell its beer only in its home state.
In the bottle: There’s not much to dislike about brown ales, and Bellaire Brown’s alluring web of flavors shows why: toffee, caramel, milk chocolate and even a wisp of coconut. This is a fairly sweet beer, but it’s far from cloying. A light nuttiness and gentle, dark bready character temper the sweetness, which results in a malt-forward, medium-bodied and deeply drinkable beer. There’s virtually no hop bitterness at work here, so hop-heads need not apply.
Alcohol: 7 percent
Drink it with: One of the glories of brown ale is its versatility beside any remotely hearty dish. From a chicken sandwich to gumbo to prime rib, Bellaire Brown is a ready accompaniment.
Find it: Available in six packs of 12-ounce bottles at better beer stores.
More information: www.shortsbrewing.com/bellaire-brown
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