Here’s to an interesting summer, with a bunch of white wines from both Portugal and Spain — arguably the two best places in the world to find today’s great values in wine — made from grapes you have never heard of, and needn’t try to pronounce, and don’t even need to remember.
Just find the wines. They’ll bring buckets of flavor to your table; they’ll make your patio al fresco foods even more delicious than they already are. I’ve tasted through more than 50 Iberian white wines to nail a dozen and a half that are just pure deliciousness.
You may be familiar with many of the Spanish whites; we all know chardonnay, which Spain also does well, and we’ve all sipped our share of albarino. But get acquainted with other Spanish grapes such as godello, xarel-lo and verdejo (verdelho in Portuguese). Those three have the green apple, citrus and mineral combo that’s something of a mark of Spanish whites. And do not forget sparkling Spanish wines such as cava — they’re not inexpensive but are as layered as fine Champagne.
Portuguese white wine grapes are off-the-wall wacky, but only because we do not meet them commonly.
If I had to generalize overall, Portuguese whites taste like riper versions of Spanish whites, more apple compote (baked apple or applesauce) than a snapped bite of Honeycrisp. The deeper, somewhat “darker” flavors are a signal for a different set of foods, such as grilled pork or vegetables, barbecued chicken or room-temp finger foods.
The Spaniards can kick off the night and perhaps begin the meal; the Portuguese can take you through it.
I list the recommended wines below by country and price; if the grape name is not part of the wine’s name, I also mark grape names, just so you can begin nosing your faves.
SPAIN
2012 Vinas del Vero Chardonnay, Somontano, Spain: Think Macon blanc, half price. $10
2012 Bodegas Robalino Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain: More texture than many; pop of minerals at the end. $13
2012 Vina Reboreda White, Ribeiro, Spain: Chill, less aroma than Argentine torrontes; lean and green; treixadura and torrontes. $13
2012 Bodegas Garcu Grande Verdejo “12 Linajes,” Rueda, Spain: Citrusy but also melon-y, with long, drying finish. $14
2013 Raimat Xarel-lo/Chardonnay “Castell de Raimat,” Costers de Segre, Spain: Blends lemony xarel-lo with white peachlike chardonnay; especially aromatic. $15
2012 Vina Somoza Godello “Sobre Lias,” Valdeorras, Spain: “Sobre lias” means lees contact, texture and creaminess, all that swaddling white peach and apple. $20
2012 Bodegas Castro Martin Albarino “Sobre Lias,” Rias Baixas, Spain: Lime-y and briny, so it says, “Find me shellfish or oysters, por favor.” $24
2012 Terras Gauda White “O Rosal,” Rias Baixas, Spain: Great blend for many vintages, a combo of sea breeze, melon and stone fruit; plump texture; albarino, loureiro, caino blanco. $20
2007 Cordoniu Xarel-lo Gran Reserva “Finca la Nasa,” Catalonia, Spain: Bottle age serves it well, with “warm,” toasty aromas and flavors framed by taut acidity. $45
PORTUGAL
2012 Herdade do Esporao Verdelho “V,” Alentejo, Portugal: Like California sauvignon blanc but with more melon and stone fruit; minerals at finish. $12
2012 Quinta do Passadouro Branco “Passa,” Douro, Portugal: Scents and savors of very ripe melon, as if lemon squeezed on it, ending on white chalk note; rabigato and voisinho. $15
2009 Bacalhoa Moscatel de Setubal, Bacalhoa, Portugal: Do not forget the globe’s best value in sweet white wine, this muscat from near Lisbon; orange marmalade, nuts, yums. $16-$20
2012 Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho “Contacto,” Vinho Verde, Portugal: Like great chenin blanc, ripe pear, with steely edge, minerals and spice; super rich in layers. $17
2012 Luis Pato Espumante “Maria Gomes,” Bairrada, Portugal: Have this sparkling wine for the grape name alone, maria gomes, made by one of Portugal’s most talented, coolest winemakers. $17
2012 Vadio White, Bairrada, Portugal: A combo of nectarine and white pepper; terrific smoothness; cerceal and bical. $20
2012 Quinta do Foz de Arouce Branco, Beira Atlantico, Portugal: Like a fjord, deep but focused, linear; fermented and aged in wood, but just long enough to add spice and layers; cerceal (arinto). $25-$35
2012 Wine & Soul Branco “Guru,” Douro, Portugal: Jump over the hipster name for a killer white aged in oak and made of no grape you’ve had before; like a warmer-site premier cru white Burgundy, really; voisinho, rabigato, codega and gouveio. $35-$45
If your wine store does not carry these wines, ask for one similar in style and price.
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