Poblano, cilantro and roasted tomato in this dish make for green, “tough-to-pair flavors,” says Belinda Chang, director of wine and spirits at Maple & Ash in Chicago. The dish needs “red wine that can handle them.” But not cabernet sauvignon. “Most of those wines would not succeed in taming the green.”
The food: Spicy beef tenderloin
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over high heat. Brown 1 1/2 pounds beef tenderloin, cut into 1-inch cubes, about 6 minutes. Transfer meat to a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to skillet. Add 1 white onion, thinly sliced, and 1 poblano, seeded, thinly sliced; cook over high heat until crisp-tender, 5 minutes. Add 3 cloves sliced garlic; cook, 1 minute. Add 1 can (14 1/2 ounces) fire-roasted tomatoes, 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, 1 chopped chipotle pepper plus 1-2 tablespoons adobo sauce; cook until reduced by half. Return meat to skillet; simmer over low heat until meat is done to your liking. Serve over rice, topped with chopped cilantro. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Lisa Schumacher
The wines
By Belinda Chang, director of wine and spirits at Maple & Ash in Chicago, as told to Michael Austin:
• 2012 Robert Sinskey Vandal Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Carneros, Calif.: This juicy, elegant, silky, black-fruited red wine has just a hint of green typical of cabernet franc, and will handle the spicy sauce perfectly.
• 2014 Domaines Ott Chateau de Selle, Cotes de Provence, France: Many dry, still rosés are great for dishes with complex flavors because they are blends of multiple grape varieties. This rosé is made from cinsault, grenache, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. It will work well with the dish because it will brighten up everything with its refreshing acidity. Also, its lovely red fruit flavors will echo the tomatoes nicely.
• 2011 Giovanna Madonia Tenentino Sangiovese, Emilia-Romagna, Italy: Tuscans might think they have a lock on sangiovese, but their neighbors to the north in Emilia-Romagna have been making wine since the seventh century B.C. Romagnan sangiovese is characterized by its fine tannins and soft palate feel, floral aromas and the typical red fruits that wines made from this grape exhibit. Sangiovese is a brilliant match for tomato sauces, and the sauce in this recipe is no exception.
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